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Any bolts need replacing at Phantom, LL, or Sugar Loaf?
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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Jun 7, 2014
Any bolts that need replacing up on either Phantom Spires, Lovers Leap, or Sugar Loaf?

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By The Farley
Jun 7, 2014
Out In NV. Photo by D. Salazar
Last time I was on Penny Candy (about 4 years ago) I remember the anchor being pretty burnt. From the comments on the route page sounds like they could still use some work.

The problem with the anchor is that it is in the flat on top of the wall.

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By Mike McL
From South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jun 7, 2014
These are probably lower priority compared to anchor bolts and rap stations, but...

Off the top of my head The Last Lockup on the lower spire has some old bolts on the top section that could stand to be replaced. Good climb by the way. I think the bolts on Penny Candy are star drives and could be upgraded.

If you're upgrading any bolts around Tahoe, THANK YOU!


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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Jun 9, 2014
Cool I'll check those both out, and see what will benefit the most from the 5 bolts and 4 hangers I have around.

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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
Jun 9, 2014
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background
The area on top of Upper Spire, where Ginger bread ends, there are two sets of double anchors without rap rings (on pair has a single quicklink). They are on the horizontal ledge portion and not on a vertical face. The bolts are ok, but the could use rings. Unless they were intentionally left off because there is more above the ledge on the upper spire? Or there is another decent option? Unless I am missing something, you have to either use one ring or leave a biner on the ringless bolt, or thread the rope through the hangers of the other set of anchors (this is what I did and it sucked). Next time I'm up there I'd certainly be willing to leave a couple pairs of quicklinks on one set of the bolts.

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By Salamanizer
Administrator
From Vacaville Ca.
Jun 10, 2014
Sugarloaf is pretty well squared away, there are a few bolts here and there but they are on routes rarely, if ever climbed. I've pretty much got that place buttoned up.

Phantom has some, especially on lower spire, but the majority is just stuff that's getting worn out. I have a list here somewhere of stuff I know about.

csproul, you're missing something. The rappel anchor is on the face just over the edge above a nice ledge just above the route Harrison Direct on the West side of the Upper Spire. It is equipped with rings.

The leap has quite a few bolts that need replacing but most if not all require some sort of PITA to get too. I have a list for bolts that need replaced for there too somewhere.

If you have the time and desire to replace bolts, I'll keep you supplied with the best stainless equipment available. I do a tone of replacement work myself but don't always have the time or motivation to get to everything on my list. I could use some help from time to time as well.

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