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Any ADK rock climbing in season?

Original Post
Emily H · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 20

Hi all!

I'm planning a trip out to Lake Placid for Thanksgiving, and it's been uncharacteristically warm here in Rochester. Any chance that someone in the Lake Placid area could let me know how the climbing conditions are? Wondering if I can sneak in a few trad routes before winter hits, though it may be too late by now.

Thanks in advance!

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Try Cascade Pass or Poko. Both cliffs get lots of sun.

MaxSuffering · · KVNY · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

People have definitely been climbing up here the past few days. If you have space in the car it wouldn't hurt anything to throw your gear in. Forecast for Thursday and Friday in K.V. is upper 40's to low 50's, a little cooler after that, totally climbable in the sun.

As Bill said Pitchoff and Poke-O (main face) get good MORNING sun but both could get chilly after it goes away. I'd get a late start and head to a cliff that gets good afternoon sun. Think: Upper Beer Wall, Spiders Web, Washbowl, Deadwater, Hurricane, Potter Mt., Center Of Progress.

Jon Clark · · Planet Earth · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 1,158

I've got the same idea. The weather looks alright for Thursday and Friday. It's generally pretty cold up there this time of year, but we may luck out. Here are some cragging options I've climbed at many times during a wide variety of seasons.

Silver Lake crags:The majority (if not all) of these face south. Potter Mtn in particular will get full sun.

Bill mentioned Poke-O, but I've frozen up there in early September. The main face goes into the shade around noon (brrr).

Poke-O Slabs-face south and should be pleasant.

There are numerous crags that face southwest in Chapel Pond pass including one of the best crags in the known universe (Spider's Web). Beer Walls are also good.

Pitchoff-faces Southeast: The crag goes into the shade around 2 (maybe earlier?)and I think the Roaches area a little earlier.

If you need a partner, let me know. I'm planning on Chapel Pond pass area Thursday and/or Friday. I'd be open to other options as well.

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847

As long as there is sun you should be able to climb.

For the all day experience hit the crags at Silver Lake Mountain. Its all south facing but the approaches are moderate to long. Potter has some great routes with one of the shortest approaches 30 minutes maybe a bit more of you've never been there.

Spiders Web is my favorite crag anywhere but there is no point in getting there before noon. It gets lots of afternoon sun and is blocked against the wind. Bring a double rack, crack shoes and your A game.

Poke-O-Mooneshine main face goes dark by noon. There are tall trees at the base so cragging will still be cold. There are climbs that offer a more sunlit base especially the climbs where the approach trail meets the cliff. Another around the central rappel area. You'd need to be fast to multi pitch. Great place though.
The Poke-O slabs get way more sun and some real testpieces under the eyebrow.

Pitchoff gets morning sun but also the wind. The Roaches area might be fairly well wind blocked for the belayer but mid pitch you feel the wind.

Deadwater gets morning sun, no wind, has an easy approach and nice climbs.

From the last 3 that I mentioned, its easy to get to Spiders Web, with a car.

Emily H · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 20

Thanks to everyone for the great responses! I really appreciate it. This is so helpful. For those who have asked on here or over messaging, I do already have a partner for the weekend. I think we'll probably head up to Spider's Web if the weather looks good!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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