Anunnaki 5.11c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c/d [details] |
| FA: | Keith Reynolds & ??? |
| Season: | Shadey, Ok in warmer temps. |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Oct 29, 2005 |
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Anunnaki. Photo by Krischa.
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Description This climb is found by following the trail right until it goes behind the leaning Anunnaki Pillar. Just as you exit this, you will see a 3" crack that thins to 1" as it climbs 50' zig-zagging wildly through clings on it's way to a set of anchors. This is on the underbelly of the leaning pillar that faces the wall and is one of the steeper splitters in the creek, albeit a short route. Climb up perfect hands for the first half of the route and get ready to gymnastically gun for the top before getting pumped. I found the route easy for it's assigned grade, but admit that I hardly tried to jam at all and was more or less face climbing the more diagonal features of the crack, toe hooking, back-stepping and flagging off of the features with my feet. Easier for the strong-shouldered and long-armed, hand size might not matter.
Protection Camalots: two #2's for the easy start. One #1 for the transition to hard moves before the chalked horizontal. Two #.75 for the hard climbing. One #.5 for the finishing moves after the crux. Slings for the anchor.
Kre starting up the route
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Leon getting some air time on Anunnaki. What a fu...
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good route perspective
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Just starting the crux
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Backside of a pillar! Nice find.
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Top of Annanuki
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I-forget-who follows Anunnaki in 2005. Photo by To...
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anunnaki
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yes
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In May 2011
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Chris flashing the route
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By camhead
Oct 6, 2006
| If you are a strong sport climber or boulderer, this is the route to do at the Creek so that you can say "I climb 5.12 crack." The entire middle of this climb is bouldery, powerful moves between good holds that are formed as the crack zigzags. There is still a final fingerlock move at the anchors, however.
Definitely one of the softer .12a's at the Creek, in my opinion. |
By chris Kalous
Nov 8, 2006
| A buddy and I climbed this route a couple years before the new book came out so we didn't know the rating. We casually rated it middle 5.11. If this thing is 5.12- then Optimator is .14a. I agree that if you don't sport climb, it may seem harder. I have watched people climb it straight in and get pumped out of their gords in the 1st 20'. |
By Jonas Wiklund
Dec 12, 2007
| Cool route, a lot different from most other routes in Indian creek in that you actually need to be able to climb face. The crack-climbing part of the route is 5.9/5.10 or so. |
By Clay Rardon
From: Morgantown, WV
Feb 17, 2008
rating: 5.11+
| Hootie freakin hoo. This is a great climb, and shady for those late summer days.daze. |
By Dave Brock
May 19, 2008
| Great short overhanging route. Definitely NOT 5.12. Probably 5.11b/c. |
By karcbr
May 21, 2008
| originally thought 11+, being the first person to climb it - but on-sight basically after removal of a large flake about midway, i think has merit. No rehearsal. |
By Monkey Den Climber
From: moab, utah
Sep 2, 2009
rating: 5.12a
| u guys r on crack if u think it is 5.11 or even close to a sport climb! go back to the gym and keep your chalk off our rock. |
By Monty
From: Morrison, Co
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.11d
| certainly one of the most unique routes at the creek. amazing movement, perfect pro, and great setting.
As far as the rating is concerned, 11+ seems fair, but as everything else at the creek it is very style (not hand size) dependent. |
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Nov 5, 2009
rating: 5.11+
| Fun stuff regardless of the rating. |
By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
Jun 2, 2010
rating: 5.12a
| Guy I was climbing with says he pretty much always onsights hard 11s. He tried twice to pink-point this after a TR rehearsal, and fell once both times. So I think 12a is fair. |
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 24, 2010
| One of the more awesome little pitches in the Creek! If I wasn't breathing so hard after sending it first go, I am sure I would have been giggling... Maybe I was... 5.Pumpy/Fun+ |
By Toby B
May 7, 2012
rating: 5.12-
| While the crack climbing is easy, the moves near the top, especially the final layback and moves on the jugs and into the last finger crack, would warrant a 5.12a grade at most sport crags. I know grades are stout at the creek and a lot of people who climb here are crushers, but I think this is a fair albeit slightly soft 5.12. |
By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Oct 1, 2012
| I won't downgrade it for people, but when I got it onsite, I had thought it was 5.11b, even though the previous nitearound the campfire everyone exclaimed how heinous it was.
As for face climbing. What faceclimbing. I did it straight in and thought it was an easy way of doing it. |
By wehlhung1
Mar 9, 2013
| blowin the chains on this thing led to the biggest winger of my life. |
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