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Ants' Line 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FA: Ants Leemets, 60's. FFA: Dave & Jim Erickson, 1968
Page Views: 15,812
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 6, 2006

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The obvious corner of Ants' Line. The crux is unde...

Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>


A great line with good protection within safe distance, all the way.

This climb is the major corner 25' left of the classic climb Bonnie's Roof, and just right of the Sleepwalk arete. A large tree grows near the base.

While there were lines on Bonnie's Roof on a crowded weekend when I was there, nobody was cued up for this climb.

P1: Stem and jam up the corner and finish up and left under the roof (crux) to reach a bolted belay station on the arete. 5.9, 80'.

Rap down or join Sleepwalk to reach the top of the cliff. Or you can continue up the fault straight above the route -- Cool Hand Duke (5.8).

From the anchor, one can TR Ent Line, on the steep wall left of Ants' Line, which I believe to be a play on names and words related to the large tree growing near the wall.


A standard light rack of nuts and cams to 3".

Photos of Ants' Line Slideshow Add Photo
Becky Diamond in the crux
Becky Diamond in the crux
Old photos shows that a crack at attachment point ...
Old photos shows that a crack at attachment point ...
Since the existing beta photo doesn't have a climb...
Since the existing beta photo doesn't have a climb...
Myself at the crux.
Myself at the crux.
Ant's Line
BETA PHOTO: Ant's Line
Paige in action.
Paige in action.
Here's the block that came down in 2010.
Here's the block that came down in 2010.
Opening moves of Ants Line.
Opening moves of Ants Line.
Sweet line--get your rests in where you can.
Sweet line--get your rests in where you can.
I love corners!
I love corners!
Tony Bubb reaches the hanging corner on Ants' Line...
Tony Bubb reaches the hanging corner on Ants' Line...
Ant's Line follower
BETA PHOTO: Ant's Line follower
Ant's Line on a fall day waiting for a Gunks Reuni...
Ant's Line on a fall day waiting for a Gunks Reuni...
Gene Smith underclinging the crux.
Gene Smith underclinging the crux.
Gene Smith approaching the crux.
Gene Smith approaching the crux.
Under the crux
Under the crux

Comments on Ants' Line Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 6, 2014
Dec 28, 2007

Tony, you must not be a local? This route is routinely gang-roped from dawn to dusk. It took me the better part of a season to find it free to lead. Late afternoon is a good time to seek it out, after the crowds have worn their friends out.

Please be courteous if you're going to TR this route, or Ents. Note: If you TR Ents, you *will* interfere with a leader on Ants - so don't do it. As a reminder, leaders have the right-of-way. (wonder how I know this?)

The route is steeper than pictures ever show it - when you lower off, you come out past the tree at the start. It's also a shady spot, nice in summer, brutal in winter. It can stay wet inside the corner longer than usual after a rain.

One final note: at my height (5'7" with a -2 ape), there's a steep 5.7/8 move to make before you can get gear in under the first roof, which is the first piece you'll want to place. After that, it's G all the way. Enjoy!
By eric larson
From: aurora, co
Apr 22, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

one of the most aesthetic lines in the gunks... just screams "Climb me!" a certain must do for the 5.9 gunks climber
By Goodhue
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 23, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This climb was fantastic! Walking up to it, I turned the corner and the first sight of it stopped me in my tracks. What a gorgeous line! Even better, there was no one in sight. Good gear and fun stemming the whole way.
By vanishing spy
Jun 14, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

On Sunday June 13th, 2010n a large block came off of Ant's Line. It now rests at the base of the climb. It came off in the rain as a party top-roped the wet route. This feature appeared solid but upon inspection (after it was on the ground) was nothing more than a poorly detached and heavy flake. The rock ripped a chunk out of the tree roots at the base of Ents Line. Fortunately and remarkably nobody was hurt.
By SethG
Jun 14, 2010

Thank goodness no one was hurt.

Do you have any more information about the former location of the block? Is it visible in any of the posted photos? Does its absence change the climb?
By vanishing spy
Jun 14, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Seth, you can see the block directly below the climber in this photo:mountainproject.com/images/87/...

It was the small roof above the first large one... You can actually see the fracture line on the right side of the block. It's on the right side of the dihedral. The block itself is about a foot high, 2 feet wide and 6 inches deep. This was an important hand and foot through this section, so yes, the climbing down low is different. I don't know if it'll be much more difficult. I didn't get on the climb that day.
By SethG
Jun 14, 2010

Wow, big block. Thanks for the info.
By Goran Lynch
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 14, 2010

I was belaying my partner (TR on a soggy day) when the block came off. He was fully above it at the time (very, very fortunate) and not touching it at all. I was belaying leaning against the more distant of two large boulders at the base and saw the block coming with enough time to jump out of the way. Good thing, too, since the block came to rest just about where I was standing.

I climbed the route shortly after the rockfall to scope out the rock scar and the (new) climbing. The entire block was attached by, at most, a few square inches of stone, and has probably been loose for a long time. Many people have yarded on it and placed gear behind it on lead; given the typically heavy traffic, it's fantastically lucky that nobody was hurt when the block decided to separate. The absence of the block revealed some good hand holds, but does make for awkward footing as you step over the newly formed overlap. The block's absence doesn't change the grade or character of the route at all.

A first-hand lesson in why you ought not tie your belayer down (or make sure they're way, WAY out of the fall-line) in a single-pitch climbing scenario.
By Serge Vecher
Jun 14, 2010

... added two new photos that show the location of the block, and its new resting place:

By K Baumgartner
Aug 27, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Bring your A game and grab rests where you can get them. I sewed it up with mostly passive pro with a #2 Camelot for good measure at the roof crux. I was seriously pumped at the crux and was loosing grip on the undercling, so I went for the move and stuck it. Beware of a loose brick sized block right above the roof. It looks like it's not going anywhere soon, but it's pretty rattly.
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Sep 18, 2012

Nothing too devious on this one for the solid 5.9 leader. If you can keep from getting pumped, you can figure it out.
By Alex Ch
From: Fairfield, CT
Aug 25, 2013

Every move on this climb is sweet. If it's open, grab it.
By BROsenthal
From: Brooklyn, NY
Jun 23, 2014

Fantastic pumpy route that has protection everywhere. *gear beta alert*
In addition to the #1 and #2 that you could get in on the inside of the overhang, the crux can be protected by a blue metolius mastercam at the leftmost point below the overhang. Slot it in from left to right and its bomber.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jul 6, 2014

Great climb, lots of stances to place gear. Protects very well all the way up. I used a #3 at the crux, it's bomber.
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