Anticipation  5.11b

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  Mark Chapman, Jim Donini 1974 Season:  All year around Submitted By:  Darko Sarenac on Sep 14, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The lower corner on Anticipation.

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2012 Closures MORE INFO >>> Yearly raptor closures typically begin March 1 and remain in effect until August 1, or until further notice. As of March 1, 2012: Lower Merced River Gorge. Closure includes all routes with the following exception: routes west of and including "Later" and northeast of and including "Juliette's Flake" remain open. See the following website for more info: www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The second pitch of this climb is easily the best pitch of this grade at Arch. Apparently there is also a loose pitch 3, but no one ever does it.

Pitch 1: This pitch is really an approach pitch and the climb would be better if you could avoid it. Start on the dirty face with a long right facing corner and another left facing one on either side of you. Climb the face to a tree (5.8) and then traverse left into an obvious fist crack. Belay at the base of the main corner (5.9).

Pitch 2. Climb the thin hands in the corner, and start stemming as the crack narrows down. It helps to have tiny fingers (11a). Move right (10+) and up to hole under a roof with thin hands in the back. It is possible to get a hands free rest by leaning the back of your head on the rock in the hole. Move up on thin flaring hands and a good undercling jug and then right into the final corner. A huge reach gains you a finger lock (11b). The pitch remains sustained.

Location 

This is the leftmost right facing corner at the arch. It is about 100 or so yards to the left of midterm. Rappel the route, or do a dirty pitch to the top and descend.

Protection 

Double up to 3'' + some small nuts. Cam number 4 is useful at the belay.