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Dome Rock
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Anti-Jello Crack 
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Anti-Jello Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 550', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FFA-P1: Yaniro, Murley (1974) FFA-P3&4: Burrill, Leversee (1976)
Page Views: 7,871
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Jul 23, 2006
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Diana leading the 5.9+ tips crack.

Description 

P1 (5.5): Start as for Tree Route. From atop the large Pine Tree, locate a 2-3" crack and follow it up and left. Belay from a shallow horizontal ledge at the start of a stunning finger crack.

P2 (5.9+ sustained): Truly classic!! Follow a left-leaning finger crack that arcs left along a clean slab. The crack starts as solid fingers and slowly tapers down to nothing. Take the time to find decent, sloping footholds out to the left. The crack takes many TCUs & small stoppers. As the crack tapers and disappears, face climb up and left to a hanging-belay from bolts.

P3 (5.10a): Step left and follow an obvious left-facing dihedral. As the corner curves to the right, the crack in the dihedral diminishes. The final 30 feet is the crux and requires small TCUs & stoppers. Belay from the 3-bolt anchor atop Tree Route's 3rd pitch.

P4 (5.6): Follow the final pitch of the Tree Route to a belay beneath an obvious horizontal crack.


Location 

Approach same as Tree Route


Protection 

Standard rack with extra TCUs & small Stoppers.



Photos of Anti-Jello Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Top of 3rd pitch of Anti-Jello
Top of 3rd pitch of Anti-Jello
Top of 3rd pitch of Anti-Jello
Top of 3rd pitch of Anti-Jello
Chuck Brainard on 2nd pitch
Chuck Brainard on 2nd pitch
At end of thin crack on 2nd pitch of Anti-Jello Crack
At end of thin crack on 2nd pitch of Anti-Jello Cr...
Diana follows the upper half of the third pitch 5.10-.
Diana follows the upper half of the third pitch 5....
Romain Wacziarg, in the business on P2 of Anti-Jello Crack
Romain Wacziarg, in the business on P2 of Anti-Jel...
Fun start to p3
Fun start to p3
Romain Wacziarg climbs through the finger-tips layback crux on P3 of Anti-Jello Crack, Dome Rock.
Romain Wacziarg climbs through the finger-tips lay...
looking up at the sweet dihedral on the 3rd pitch
BETA PHOTO: looking up at the sweet dihedral on the 3rd pitch
Climbers on the second pitch.
Climbers on the second pitch.
Darshan on the second pitch.  This photo makes it look steeper than it is!
Darshan on the second pitch. This photo makes it ...
Comments on Anti-Jello Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 20, 2013
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 23, 2006

The second pitch is the single best pitch I've done for the grade! And one of my favorites anywhere.

A great variation is to climb P2 until the splitter finger crack ends, then follow an obvious 3-inch crack up and right to the second belay of Tree Route. Follow Tree Route to the top.

THANKS FOR THE CORRECTION! (see below)

By Isaac T.
From: Rockville, MD
Jun 23, 2008

The 3 inch crack you mentioned for the P2 variation is more of a finger crack (at the beginning) and then widens to big fists. Also with a 70 meter rope you can belay from the ground and make it to the belay anchor at the top of the 5.9 splitter crack.

By Mike
From: Phoenix
Aug 29, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

A nice route! The second pitch is classic, and the crux isn't quite as hard as it appears from below.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Nov 18, 2009

What are the bolts like at the bolted belays? Old buttonheads or what?
Thanks.

EDIT: Thanks Bryan.

By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Jul 19, 2010

The bolts are all bomber.

By Brian Paden
From: Goleta CA
Aug 29, 2010

Pitch 2 is beautiful. Gradually gets harder all the way to the end of the pitch. Be sure to bring some real small stuff.

The variation to the right after pitch 2 is aesthetic but disappointingly easy compared to pitch 2. Stick with the 10a bit on the left.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Sep 20, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Pitches two and three are so good. Pitch two is slippery feet along a locker finger crack that eventually disappears. My partner came up and asked if that was the crux. No, I said, that'd be the next pitch. The third pitch crux is thin, and I found myself pulling an exhilarating tips lieback to get through. This is stout, technical climbing for the grade; I haven't worked this hard for 10a in a long time! I couldn't recommend this climb more, especially for the ease of approach compared to the Needles proper.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
May 30, 2011

To add to what Bryan said, the bolts atop P2 are 3/8" Rawls with the original (old school) hangers attached. You can see at least two chopped 1/4" bolts nearby. Unfortunately, the three anchor bolts atop P2 are spread out awkwardly and positioned too low to take advantage of a large knob to stand on. The resulting hanging belay is quite uncomfortable.

The bolts atop P3 were replaced by the ASCA and are situated well.

By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Sep 19, 2011

Amazing.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Nov 2, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Right?

By G Frisby
From: Orange, CA
Oct 12, 2012

climbed this a few weeks ago. the quality of this route cannot be overstated. pitch two is sustained and strenuous; nothing but tips for my big fingers. pitch three has two distinct sections: the first half is fun/easy to a generous rest spot right before the classic dihedral shown in the photos. the dihedral is ridiculously fun, with a nice opening for your fingers at about 2/3 through.

By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Oct 4, 2013

Just have to talk up this route. 2nd pitch is just so beautiful and good. The 3rd pitch is pretty dang hard at the end but, yeah, easier than it looks. Definitely workin big time for a 10a though. It is usually very desperate for me. Last time my partner was workin the arete and made it look pretty casual. Unfortunately, one could bail out right at the beginning of it but don't you dare!

By limpingcrab
From: Visalia, CA
Oct 20, 2013

Super great route, here are a few things FYI

-If the first pitch is clogged with tree routers there's a fun bolted variation just to the left. Walk a bit past tree route and follow a line of bolts (5.7/5.8ish) up to a bolted belay below the finger crack of p2 (you can use this belay either way and then you don't have to bring anything bigger than a #1). For more info click here.

-Bring LOTS of tiny stuff if you're a wuss like me, I ran out the first time.

-File your fingers to make them tiny