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Classic moves: start with your ass way down in the dirt, left hand absurdly low on the arete and right on a good sidepull or undercling. Power out the steep overhang with positive flakes, underclings, kneebars, toehooks, and brute force to slopey-ish holds at the lip, then find the good flake out left to top out easily. This would for sure get four stars except for the extreme dab potential on the rock a few inches below your rear. And it'll probably feel easy at the grade if you do a lot of pullups.
On the left side of the Death Star Cave, climb from a sit, straight up through the awesome undercling feature.
Pads and spotter, or ditch the pads to give yourself a few inches, falling on the rock probably wouldn't hurt THAT bad...
From: Augsburg, Germany
Jun 11, 2010
Amazing movement.... couple different ways to do the moves both before and after pulling the lip.
|By Tavis Ricksecker|
From: Bishop, ca
Dec 22, 2011
First move kind of ruins it for me. Otherwise it's a great problem.
Aug 11, 2013
rating: V4 6B
A bit of a grovel, but fun climbing.
Lots of ways to do the lip encounter - I always thought it was easier to come at it from the right.