This is an excellent short crack and slab climb. The crack is gorgeous, with perfect hand jams tapering to tight fingers at the top. The crux occurs once the crack disappears, with a few delicate 5.9 slab moves. But even after the crux, the climb keeps you on your toes, because the slab continues for another 20 ft without any protection, but getting easier as you approach the anchors.
This is the middle crack on the shortline wall. It splits half-way up, take the left-hand split.
Set of wires and cams to 3". The crux is protected by a small but bomber nut placement (a finger joint size). Even though the hard moves are above this placement, it is bomber and there is a clean fall. Go for it!
The anchor consists of 3 old 1/4" bolts and some old webbing/rings. For top-roping bring a cordalette or webbing to extend the anchor over the lip.
|By Karl Kiser|
May 31, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
This was the first route on the small wall. FA: Karl Kiser & Cathy Dunn, summer 1979.