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Routes in Gorilla Rock
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Ant Crack, Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Ant Crack, Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Gorilla Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ko-Ko Box T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 946 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Justin Johnsen on May 6, 2013 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Road Closure - Caldor Fire and Dirt road winter closures
Details
While climbing is open, Wrights Lake Road is within the Caldor Fire closure: fs.usda.gov/eldorado/. Plan to approach from Hwy 50. In addition, Eldorado National Forest closes dirt roads during wet conditions between November and May. The main office number 530-622-5061 might help you get current conditions, which aren't always updated on the website. fs.usda.gov/detail/eldorado… When the road is closed, simply park on a pullout of Wrights Lake Road and walk the extra mile.
Description
The punchline to the route name is only an ant could climb the "crack" for most of this line... though it opens up and takes fingers or toes at the very end. The crux moves are face and use smearing. Start by attaining a ledge low on the face. Walk it left (past Ant Crack, Right) to the next fracture. Work up the crack line, using things on the face, resting at the occasional tiny Phantom Spires Patented Knob. When the crack opens enough to take finger tips near the finish, the going gets easy.
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