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By Eddie2170
From Orange County, NY
Feb 12, 2013
I know some people hate these threads but I'm curious and want to see if there are any pieces I might've overlooked, plus I like these threads and I'm sure some other gear junkies do too. I just want to get my gear together before it gets nice back east. So if you don't mind helping out thanks.

For reference, I climb at the gunks & I'm currently a new leader doing climbs I've followed on already, pretty comfortable up to 5.7/5.8 and I want to break into a little higher grades after repeating some classics and doing most of the climbs I've already followed on.

Current rack:

BD C4 .3-3
BD stoppers 4-13
Tricams .5-2 (Doubles on pink & red)
C3 0 1 & 2
12 Trad Draws (was 8 with 4 sport draws just got 4 more slings)
2 Double length Dyneema runners
1 Double length Transformer sling (bolted anchors)
2 Cordelettes

I'm probably going to ditch the BD 3 and larger 2 tricams unless the route calls for it & just leave them in the pack.

How am I right now? Being the first question...

And I eventually want to get, tell me if i should or should not get
DMM Alloy offset nuts set
Doubles on midrange/most used stoppers-in BD or another brand?(if so which)
The 3 Totem Basic cams
Doubles in .5,.75,&1 but not sure if i should get BD or a complimenting brand (and if so which)

I know thats probably a lot of info and to read through, thanks for those of you who stuck with it, any help is awesome and appreciated!

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By Maurice Chaunders
Feb 13, 2013
Colombian Crack
DMM Offsets are great. Can't say they'd be great at the Gunks, perhaps, with all the horizontals, but I friggin' love mine.

Totem cams seem good, and might be the new C4s someday, but I'd recommend the colors and sizes of what you already have. One more size and color and trigger to mess with can slow you down or get in your head when you are freaking out above your last piece. I have a similar rack to yours and use Metolius TCUs and small powercams to cover my BDs. I like the C3s, but you should wait for the X4s at this point. Then get them, or buy the out "dated" C3s; I like mine and they'll be cheap when the new cams come out this spring. I have offset TCUs also, and a few powercams. I'd recommend those highly as well.

Link cams seem controversial. Personally, I love mine and have all 4 sizes. Also controversial: a PAS. Again, I love mine.

You'll probably also want a few locking biners. I like large pear shaped ones with notchless gates for anchor master points and everything else. Get some nice ones

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By AnthonyM
Feb 13, 2013
Maroon Bells-Bell Cord Couloir
What about the 00 and 000 (aid climbing but still very useful), also my newest pieces-some ball nuts-they can be a bitch to take out (if you weight them) but seem to fit incredibly in places where the smaller cams don't cut it. Also I recommend the Metolius SuperCam

This cam is great for when you are unsure how big of pro you'll need.

Hope this helps... Cheers.

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By Eddie2170
From Orange County, NY
Feb 13, 2013
mike seaman wrote:
DMM Offsets are great. Can't say they'd be great at the Gunks, perhaps, with all the horizontals, but I friggin' love mine. Totem cams seem good, and might be the new C4s someday, but I'd recommend the colors and sizes of what you already have. One more size and color and trigger to mess with can slow you down or get in your head when you are freaking out above your last piece. I have a similar rack to yours and use Metolius TCUs and small powercams to cover my BDs. I have offset TCUs also, and a few powercams. I'd recommend those highly as well. Link cams seem controversial. Personally, I love mine and have all 4 sizes. Also controversial: a PAS. Again, I love mine. You'll probably also want a few locking biners. I like large pear shaped ones with notchless gates for anchor master points and everything else. Get some nice ones


My friend has them and said the same thing regarding the offsets, I should have borrowed them for a few pitches to see if I liked/used them to justify them, didn't get a chance before he wen't back to guide school.

The Totems I mentioned were Totem Basics, so basically Alien's with some tweaks and changes, I like the changes & they're cheaper than fixe (to me thats a win win)

As far as link cams another friend has them and I want to talk to him again and maybe use them as well, I think having them as uh oh & belay station pieces would be killer but I'd have to justify the price/weight.

I have a bunch of spare lockers & non lockers, I just need to figure out exactly what else I want & need on my harness, I just didn't list them. As far as a PAS I have and currently use mine, I was going to try scrapping it for a few climbs and try to just use the rope cloved for belay stations and then a sling to extend out my atc for rapps, see what I like better, and I also might try a Purcell Prussik instead, that's kind of up in the air.

Thanks for the feedback

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By Eddie2170
From Orange County, NY
Feb 13, 2013
Anthony Milano wrote:
What about the 00 and 000 (aid climbing but still very useful), also my newest pieces-some ball nuts-they can be a bitch to take out (if you weight them) but seem to fit incredibly in places where the smaller cams don't cut it. Also I recommend the Metolius SuperCam This cam is great for when you are unsure how big of pro you'll need. Hope this helps... Cheers.


I was going to eventually get the 00 & 000 but for now, especially at my trad level, I didn't think they'd be worth it for the price but you're definitely right they'll probably be added before fall or next spring.

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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Feb 13, 2013
mike seaman wrote:
DMM Offsets are great.


Yes they are

mike seaman wrote:
Totem cams seem good,


Hell yeah there are. I have totem, CCH, and Fixe aliens and the Totem are by far the smoothest and cleanest.

mike seaman wrote:
I like the C3s, but you should wait for the X4s at this point. Then get them, or buy the out dated C3s


  • facepalm* that's like saying that the mastercams made your tcu's outdated. They are not a replacement but a supplement.

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By Eddie2170
From Orange County, NY
Feb 13, 2013
NorCalNomad wrote:
I have totem, CCH, and Fixe aliens and the Totem are by far the smoothest and cleanest.


Seconding what ive heard, or at this point like the 12th person, to say the same which is why I was going to pick up the basics they make, just hoping they get all the sizes made at some point.

NorCalNomad wrote:
*facepalm* that's like saying that the mastercams made your tcu's outdated. They are not a replacement but a supplement.


Correct, they're is definitely an overlap, but for pin scars and such I want the c3's for now plus the x4's are much more expensive an not out yet, I want to get my gear together now before it's rock season back in the northeast, but you are correct they look awesome and I can't wait to get my hands on some but i'll stick with the c3's for now like Nomad said the x4's will be a future supplement

pic for reference:


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By Eddie2170
From Orange County, NY
Feb 13, 2013
JLP wrote:
Here's the answer to all of these threads: Pick out 2-3 challenging leads and see what the rack is for them. Buy or borrow that rack. Repeat.


While that would probably be the ideal way to do this it's definitely not always doable or would cost a crazy amount

This thread was more for does anyone see any important gaps in my gunks rack and am I going in the right direction in my future purchases or should I go in another direction

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By divnamite
From New York, NY
Feb 13, 2013
Eddie2170 wrote:
For reference, I climb at the gunks & I'm currently a new leader doing climbs I've followed on already, pretty comfortable up to 5.7/5.8 and I want to break into a little higher grades after repeating some classics and doing most of the climbs I've already followed on. Current rack: BD C4 .3-3 BD stoppers 4-13 Tricams .5-2 (Doubles on pink & red) C3 0 1 & 2 12 Trad Draws (was 8 with 4 sport draws just got 4 more slings) 2 Double length Dyneema runners 1 Double length Transformer sling (bolted anchors) 2 Cordelettes I'm probably going to ditch the BD 3 and larger 2 tricams unless the route calls for it & just leave them in the pack. How am I right now? Being the first question... And I eventually want to get, tell me if i should or should not get DMM Alloy offset nuts set Doubles on midrange/most used stoppers-in BD or another brand?(if so which) The 3 Totem Basic cams Doubles in .5,.75,&1 but not sure if i should get BD or a complimenting brand (and if so which) I know thats probably a lot of info and to read through, thanks for those of you who stuck with it, any help is awesome and appreciated!

For up to 5.7/8 gunks routes, your current rack is enough. Get rid of one of the cordettes. For harder stuff, I would add more smaller sizes, Blue TCU is fantastic investment. Do bring the #3, as most routes will take a #3. If you are climbing classic routes, I probably wouldn't even bother with cordelettes since most of them would have a rap anchor.

What is a transformer sling and why is it for bolts?

FLAG
By Eddie2170
From Orange County, NY
Feb 13, 2013
divnamite wrote:
For up to 5.7/8 gunks routes, your current rack is enough. Get rid of one of the cordettes. For harder stuff, I would add more smaller sizes, Blue TCU is fantastic investment. Do bring the #3, as most routes will take a #3. If you are climbing classic routes, I probably wouldn't even bother with cordelettes since most of them would have a rap anchor. What is a transformer sling and why is it for bolts?


I have my partner carry the second cord so its not a huge deal, and the transformer sling is just a double length nylon runner by mammut, I'll use it for extending over an edge or for making a masterpoint on the bolted anchors for a quick easy bomber setup.

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By divnamite
From New York, NY
Feb 13, 2013
Why not use regular slings?

Gunks is the perfect example on why cordellette is not very useful for cragging.

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By Eddie2170
From Orange County, NY
Feb 13, 2013
divnamite wrote:
Why not use regular slings? Gunks is the perfect example on why cordellette is not very useful for cragging.


I got transformer slings cheap & they're just a normal nylon sling just made out of normally recycled material so they look funny, which doesn't bother me

And me and my partners never swing leads, and we occasionally have 3 person parties, so cordelettes make a lot of sense for us

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By Larry S
Feb 13, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.
I just made this chart for my cam/tricam rack yesterday. Here's a visual the gear you're carrying.


Eddie's Rack
Eddie's Rack


I have the 3 and 4 tcu's and a purple alien, which approx double up the .5 and .75 and #1 C4's, otherwise, we've got pretty much the same rack. I don't always carry everything... Just what I think i'll need.

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By johnthethird
Feb 13, 2013
For a gunks rack, I'd say you're already set (though not sure on the sizing of your C3's, I use TCU's and mastercams). I do place the small purple a lot at the Gunks.

The only thing I would add if it were my rack is a screamer for old pins. I also often carry a revolver draw.. I also own a set of alloy offsets, and use them often.

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By Eddie2170
From Orange County, NY
Feb 13, 2013
johnthethird wrote:
For a gunks rack, I'd say you're already set (though not sure on the sizing of your C3's, I use TCU's and mastercams). I do place the small purple a lot at the Gunks. The only thing I would add if it were my rack is a screamer for old pins. I also often carry a revolver draw.. I also own a set of alloy offsets, and use them often.


The C3s are the largest 3 C3s (out of 5) the #2 being the largest is basically equivalent to a BD C4 .3

And I do own and carry a single screamer for that exact purpose but never got to use it yet, I added it early winter on my last day out, not sure which it is I bought it from a guy on here selling his rack and it doesnt even look used, great deal.

And what is, may I ask, revolver draw.

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By johnthethird
Feb 13, 2013
Eddie2170 wrote:
The C3s are the largest 3 C3s (out of 5) the #2 being the largest is basically equivalent to a BD C4 .3 And I do own and carry a single screamer for that exact purpose but never got to use it yet, I added it early winter on my last day out, not sure which it is I bought it from a guy on here selling his rack and it doesnt even look used, great deal. And what is, may I ask, revolver draw.


google.ca/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=dmm...

Just another way to reduce rope drag, some think its gimmicky, I like having one.

FLAG
 
By Larry S
Feb 13, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.
The DMM Revolver is a carabiner with a pully/roller built into it. It's expensive and kinda gimmiky. I bought two thinking they'd be great for reducing rope drag on routes that really wander, but I hardly ever use them.

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By divnamite
From New York, NY
Feb 13, 2013
At this point, I think it's established that your rack is more than sufficient to climb the routes you want. So go and enjoy!

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By Eddie2170
From Orange County, NY
Feb 13, 2013
Gotcha I definitely get the concept of them but idk if id get one, decent idea though

and thanks for all the replies

I think the biggest thing is I looked at the expansion range on the 3 totem basics and from what I can tell they would fit perfectly between the cams I have

Again thanks for the replies guys

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By bearbreeder
Feb 13, 2013
stop MPing and go climb ... youll figure it out ...

its that simple ;)

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By Jeff J
From Bozeman
Feb 13, 2013
bearbreeder wrote:
stop MPing and go climb ... youll figure it out ... its that simple ;)



+10^10th. Go climb! a few routes, you will figure out what you a lacking/wantig more of and what excessive crap you a hauling around and not using.

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By rogerbenton
Feb 13, 2013
Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible...
for gunks multi pitch leading 5.9's and under i bring:

the same rack of c3's and c4's as you mentioned, with doubles in bd .5 and .75.

for stoppers, i have a bd set and a bd micro set and during the course of the last season i paired them down to about 8 pieces from small to large with double #9.

my blue and green aliens get a lot of use.

i ditched the tricams, they just weren't getting used.

I usually bring 8 trad draws, 4-6 quickdraws and two long slings- doubled, over the shoulder with a biner on each.

this is a ton of gear for the relatively short gunks pitches but unless you've lead it before you never know what you'll need.

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By Logan Schiff
From Brooklyn, NY
Feb 13, 2013
I like having the 00 C4. Even on the moderates there are occasional times when it's the best placement. Also find doubles of the smaller C4s and C3s useful for long pitches or linking up pitches, but definitely not crucial. I bought some micronuts recently. Haven't used them much.

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By Eddie2170
From Orange County, NY
Feb 13, 2013
bearbreeder wrote:
stop MPing and go climb ... youll figure it out ... its that simple ;)


Jeff J wrote:
+10^10th. Go climb! a few routes, you will figure out what you a lacking/wantig more of and what excessive crap you a hauling around and not using.


You guys are definitely right, its just cold and snowy here in the east, we're currently getting a few inches of snow, and I made this thread to get everything together before its nice out so I'm good and ready, which it definitely has.

I feel I'm definitely where I want to be and the first few weeks on rock this spring will decide whether I want to double up where I want or get inbetween cams of a different brand

Logan Schiff wrote:
I like having the 00 C4. Even on the moderates there are occasional times when it's the best placement. Also find doubles of the smaller C4s and C3s useful for long pitches or linking up pitches, but definitely not crucial. I bought some micronuts recently. Haven't used them much.


You're right on the c3's but like I stated above i'll probably get the smaller 2 c3's and maybe some x4's depending on how people feel about them when they are available to everyone, but that'll probably be for the fall or next spring, thanks man

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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Feb 14, 2013
bearbreeder wrote:
stop MPing and go climb ... youll figure it out ... its that simple ;)


Stop it. The more people buy unnecessary gear the more than shows up in B/S/T, and who doesn't love cheap gear?

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By Eddie2170
From Orange County, NY
Feb 14, 2013
NorCalNomad wrote:
Stop it. The more people buy unnecessary gear the more than shows up in B/S/T, and who doesn't love cheap gear?


The point of the thread is to not buy unnecessary gear/ only buy whats necessary

But you're right the more people that do so definitely make more gear available cheap for the rest of us.

That's where I got my doubles of red & pink tricams plus my 3 screamers

FLAG


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