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Another Wack and Dangle Job
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 7
votes
Routes in The King Wall
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Another Wack and Dangle Job T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chronic Fixation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Elusive Dream (pitch 1 only) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Four Guns Blazing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Keep, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kingdom Come S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 |
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Prince, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Royal Pain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wall Ruler-King and I (linkup) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Working Wives S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | FA:Pat Purcell FFA:Matt McCormick |
| Page Views: | 2,006 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Matt McCormick on Sep 14, 2009 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
This amazing route lies in the massive left arching corner on the left end of the King Wall. Pat Purcell aided the route to the existing anchor all the while intending for it to be a full length route. The potential to extend this free climb out the rest of the arch is definitely there!
Scramble around left and back right across a scrappy ledge to reach the base of the left facing and overhanging corner. The start of the route is marked by a 2-bolt anchor which Purcell must have placed.
Stem up the initial corner into increasingly steep and pumpy climbing to reach the anchor. This route is truly unique for the Daks and should be destined to become a free classic at the crag!
Scramble around left and back right across a scrappy ledge to reach the base of the left facing and overhanging corner. The start of the route is marked by a 2-bolt anchor which Purcell must have placed.
Stem up the initial corner into increasingly steep and pumpy climbing to reach the anchor. This route is truly unique for the Daks and should be destined to become a free classic at the crag!
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