Another Pipeline Bonecrusher
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This is the overhanging, southeastly-facing fingertip splitter around the south face of Rincon Wall, just uphill from Point Break
. It runs through the left wall of a big dihedral capped by a roof and is very overhanging, but with solid locks.
Traverse in from the left (below Spicoli
, the new bolt-route through the overlaps) and climb past 3 bolts and some fairly rotten rock to reach the base of the corner.
Power out on a flexing flake and head up the steep, strenuous crack on good, but sometimes distant fingerlocks. An easy but flaky corner caps the roof.
Rappel 90 feet (?) off a tree (it may be a good idea to have someone second this pitch, as it leans a lot and has a rope-slicing arete just right of the line).
Three bolts take you to a finger crack with some fixed wires. Bring supplemental gear in the small-mid ranges (set of stoppers, small TCUs) and a hand-sized piece for over the lip.
By Will Butler
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 30, 2011
There are now chains at the top of Another Pipeline Bonecrusher. We also replaced the third bolt as the old one was sticking out from the wall. Thanks to Chris Archer and ACE for supplying the hardware!
With the addition of these anchors, and the ability to project the route, I think it's definitely worthy of 3 stars as it's a splitter overhanging crack in Eldo.
According to Jo Huggins, the route's name comes from a line from the awesomely 70's surf movie Big Wednesday... "and here's Jerry Lopez on another pipeline bonecrusher."