|Hole in the Wall
From the belay, head up and left to a bolt then attack the thin crack straight up. Follow this up to the crux roof and a line of bolts up the headwall. The roof (crux) has a high bolt that can be difficult to clip then typically move a bit to the right to turn the roof or try it straight on. The headwall offers up continuous climbing at a slightly easier grade than the crack and roof and keeps you on your toes.
A great line that offers up a little of everything. Face, crack, a roof and good position.
Climb either of the sport routes, Sister Sledge or Insane Clown Posse, or the first pitch of Miss Piggy to the bolted anchor at mid height on the wall. Head up and left to the first bolt but then continue straight up, the bolts continuing left to the arete are for Birth of the Cool.
Bolts with thin gear, RP's to finger size cams for the 20 feet of crack. Tree to anchor off of about 25 feet back from the top of the wall.
|By George Perkins|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 27, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
The old "Hikers & Climbers Guide" may be mixed up with this climb. It lists it as 5.13a, and shows an independent bolted first pitch to this climb left of Ms. Piggy, which isn't there I think.
|By Eric Whitbeck|
Aug 10, 2012
Certainly just bad beta. The new info is correct.