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Another Eldo accident 6-26-2010
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By Rocky Mountain Rescue Group
From Boulder, CO
Jul 7, 2010
Trademarked logo of Rocky Mountain Rescue Group, Inc.

A summary of the June 26 Redguard rescue is available on the Rocky Mountain Rescue Group website.

www.rockymountainrescue.org/eldo_Redguard_6-26-2010.php


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By AJS
From Boulder, CO
Jul 7, 2010
In the sea of Cortez - Baja California, Mexico

From the summary: "Shortly thereafter, however, a pair of climbers on the Naked Edge rappelled to the bolt anchors at the top of Touch and Go and lowered a fixed line for rescuers to ascend. This selfless act for their fellow climbers in need saved significant time in getting medical care to the patient"

Just curious what exactly 'a fixed line' means in this case:

-I'm picturing threading the rope as if for a standard rappel - i.e. thru rings/biners at the bolt anchors with equal lengths to the ground (1/2 of the 60m rope, say)

or??

- rig one end of the rope to the two bolt anchors and lower the full length of the rope to the ground (full 60m)

I suppose if RMRG was using mechanical ascenders option 2 would be better?

Thanks in advance.
-Adam

(also, if anyone thinks this should be in a separate topic I'd be happy to move it)


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By Buff Johnson
Jul 7, 2010
smiley face

Adam -- what is being asked for is to have a terminal knot in one end of a rope attached to a solid anchor; whether it be trad, bolts, tree, boulder, whatever, as long as it's a solid anchor, slap an 8 on a bight and clip it to the anchor -- or tensionless wraps around a natural feature and 8 that to itself; Luebben's rope anchor distribution-rig works well, also. Then that line is jugged/jumared for access by the rescuer -- this is a single line, so not the typical double stranded rappel setup.

Ropes of adequate diameter for jumars -- so, I wouldn't look for too much help from the 8.0 halfs/twins/tag line.

If climbers can fix lines to help responders get to an injured person, that can be a tremendous advantage. Also, if at all possible -- pad edges the rope will run over. Make the line safe & solid; would you trust your life to it?

Statics/low stretch work better than dynamics, but by all means, if all you have is the dynamic, go with it and fix it to the anchor.

(Also note, not RMRG response; this is just what I would look for, and felt I answered something that probably is a good question to have been asked).


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By AJS
From Boulder, CO
Jul 7, 2010
In the sea of Cortez - Baja California, Mexico

Thanks Mark - I've been taught 'self-rescue' and 'escaping the belay' stuff but it never came up before what to do to if I'm a third party to help...


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