Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Another Day in Paradise
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British PG13
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
Routes in The White Wall
|
|
Another Day in Paradise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
|
|
Apache Rose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Billy the Kid T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
|
|
Cactus Fingers T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Duke of Lizards T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Egg Timer, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
|
Fork’s Flyer T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Hocus Focus T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
|
|
K.C. Crypt Keeper T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Little Prince, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Meat Puppet T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Moonrise Kingdom T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
|
|
New Kid On The Blocks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Pandora's Box T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Perfect Beast T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Popeye T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
|
|
Prudence T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Sage Against the Machine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Skull Digger T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Tiger Bomb T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
|
|
White Narwhal, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
|
|
White Rose, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 852 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Zach Harrison on Oct 14, 2014 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
Another Day in Paradise consists of multiple cruxes, solid gear, awesome holds and just a bit of spice!
Boulder out of Sedona up big ledges to gain the actual rock. Solid gear is had once at the stance below the roof. Puzzle your way up to the roof and some jams. Swing right and giggle up heroic section of thin hands. As the crack pinches down, fussy but good gear will see you into the cramped stance below the final roof. A blind nut can protect the final section, but only if you get it right! Engineer your way up positive choss through the 'ball pit' to the top.
Boulder out of Sedona up big ledges to gain the actual rock. Solid gear is had once at the stance below the roof. Puzzle your way up to the roof and some jams. Swing right and giggle up heroic section of thin hands. As the crack pinches down, fussy but good gear will see you into the cramped stance below the final roof. A blind nut can protect the final section, but only if you get it right! Engineer your way up positive choss through the 'ball pit' to the top.
Location
This slice of paradise sits on the left edge of the White Wall, about 25 feet left of Forks Flyer in the middle of the red soil. Climb around the left side of a horizontal roof 20 feet up.
Protection
A lot of the pitch wanted to eat small nuts, while cams of the same size never quite sat right.
I used 2X #3-6 BD Stoppers, 1X#8,9 BD Stopper. 1X TCU's and cams from BD#00-#2 with 2X BD .3's. On top, grab a rap line and tie it off of a pine 60 feet back from the edge for a solid anchor. Bring plenty of runners as the crack wanders a lot.
I used 2X #3-6 BD Stoppers, 1X#8,9 BD Stopper. 1X TCU's and cams from BD#00-#2 with 2X BD .3's. On top, grab a rap line and tie it off of a pine 60 feet back from the edge for a solid anchor. Bring plenty of runners as the crack wanders a lot.
0 Comments