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5.9 FA: Mark & Carlie Ronca
A long, broken ridge that begins at the road and continues to top of valley. Adventurous route with fun positions and varied climbing. Some loose rock that may improve with more traffic.
Rack: Single set stoppers, double set cams to #2, 3.5 cam.
Pitch from road not recommended due to loose rock. Scramble up the right side of the ridge then move left to the base of the first buttress.
Pitch One, 5.6: Scramble up slab to a wide crack on the south face of buttress. Climb crack and face with good holds. Exit right and belay on top. Move belay across saddle to the base of the crux traverse.
Pitch Two, 5.9: Traverse right in thin seams to arete (crux). Climb up arete directly and belay at the top of this second buttress. Fixed pin in small bush.
Pitch Three, 4th class: Descend to saddle. Bushwhack up slope traverse left on large ledge at base of third buttress. Continue up and belay at a large juniper at the base of the fourth buttress.
Pitch Four, 5.7: Climb quartz crack to slab. Follow rib up onto left side of forth buttress. Climb wide crack (3.5 cam) and exit right to belay at horizontal crack.
Pitch Five, 5.8: Make rising traverse right under bulge. Continue around right arete then make a long traverse right into corner. Climb corner to large, sloping, belay ledge.
Pitch Six, 5.7: Step down and left to climb a left-facing corner. Climb corner system to broken terrain. Belay at large ledge with tree.
Pitch Seven, 5.4: Pass the final buttress around the right side. Continue up lower angle terrain to top.
Descent: Walk off ridge east of climb, then exit into one of several low angle gullies back to car.