Annals of Time  5.9

1,419 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Keith Cattabriga, Dale Dawson, 1984 Season:  Climbable early Submitted By:  Nick Stayner on Mar 26, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Some climbers finishing the last pitch of Annals o...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

The final pitch is really the bread & butter of this route.

P1- 5.7R, 200': Climb a slab with minimal pro and trend left. Aim for a large, talus-covered ledge with a big tree. NOTE: The ledge can be reached by a gully to the left, but this is often wet, has much loose rock, and is generally unpleasant. You can also avoid the runout 5.7 portion by climbing an easy crack just to its right.Check the book for details if you want.

P2- 5.8, ~180': Spot a finger-hand crack on a blunt arete at the left end of the ledge. Climb this to a grassy ledge, where a belay can be set up (the seam you can see here is 5.10 and hard to protect, but with good moves). Continue up easy ground, aiming for the splitter crack in the upper headwall. Belay below this crack.

P3- 5.9, 120': Sweet finger-hand crack with a few nice jugs! Pull through three mini-roof sections utilizing finger and hand james. Very fun.

Location 

Approach and Descent, see Omega Buttress

Protection 

The crack takes a variety of gear. Maybe doubles in the .75"-2" range.