Ankles Away 5.11 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 230 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Tony Yaniro, Brett Maurer, Toivo Kodas (1982) |
| Submitted By: | Alex Shainman on Aug 13, 2007 |
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RIP Jeff.
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Description Outstanding!!
Do it one 70M! pitch for the best continuity and full value! IMO, the best 5.11 pitch at the Needles!
P1: 10d. Palming, stemming and laying it back is the business at the start of Pegleg/Ankles Away (50'). Its a little grainy and hard to pro but you have to do it.
P2: Awesome tips and finger crack action on a steep and bullet-proof slab! The pro is good when you get it in which adds to the difficulties. Trust your smears and go for it! Re-join Pegleg at its top (easy) corner and jam a fun crack to an easy corner and to the chain/common-rap anchor.
Location Left end of the Witch. Chimney up the loose groove at the start of Airy Interlude or (better) find the easiest line of weakness up the rock band halfway down the descent gully.
Protection 2-3 sets of #4-7 BD Stoppers, one set med/large offset brass nuts, #00-2 TCU's, (2x) Red Alien Size, Red and Gold Camalot. Bring more nuts and small TCU's if you do it in one long 70M pitch.
By Scott Bennett
Jul 9, 2009
rating: 5.11+ PG13
| Stellar pitch, full on trad! Both my partner and I though it was harder than Pegleg, which is given 11d and might be a touch soft. So I think at least 11+ for Ankles, and my guidebook said 12b, which didn't feel that far off. Maybe I just suck at slabs, though.
My ideal rack would be 3x Purple C3 (black alien or grey TCU), then doubles up to purple camalot, single green and red camalot, plus a healthy set of RPs, brassies, etc. Offsets (Aliens and HBs) are also useful.
-Scott |
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