|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 230'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA:||Tony Yaniro, Brett Maurer, Toivo Kodas (1982)|
|Submitted By:||Alex Shainman on Aug 13, 2007|
|Comments on Ankles Away||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Scott Bennett
Jul 9, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Stellar pitch, full on trad! Both my partner and I though it was harder than Pegleg, which is given 11d and might be a touch soft. So I think at least 11+ for Ankles, and my guidebook said 12b, which didn't feel that far off. Maybe I just suck at slabs, though.
My ideal rack would be 3x Purple C3 (black alien or grey TCU), then doubles up to purple camalot, single green and red camalot, plus a healthy set of RPs, brassies, etc. Offsets (Aliens and HBs) are also useful.
By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Jun 5, 2014
|I can remember seeing a photo of Taras Skibicky in a Chouinard catalogue climbing this when I was a kid. I then met him at Morrison some afternoona year or so later, and was able to boulder with him. I credit that photo of this line for providing inspiration to a 14-year kid in Denver! All he had to say about it was " Yeah, it was pretty hard!"|
By Kris Solem
From: Monrovia, CA
Jul 23, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
I don't see this climb - which I have done several times - as crossing the line into 5.12. That said it's about as hard as that kind of 5.11 can get.
It's just me, but I can't see the advantage of doing it in one long pitch. You have less freedom to move well with all that rope, the belay ledge is as good as they get, and you can't swing leads with your partner.
All in it's a Needles classic, and a bit unique for the area.
The biggest piece you need is a 1 inch cam. A few smaller TCU's are useful but mostly tiny to medium stoppers are the deal. The placements (assuming you get them right) are so good that IMO you only need a few draws for the second pitch, just take a bunch of free 'biners. YMMV.
Also,for the first pitch double ropes are nice, as you can place gear on either side of the parallel cracks without long runners. Anyone know if the fixed crackenup is still there at the start?