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 ADVANCED
The Dihedrals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ankles Away S 
Atrophy S 
Dihedral T 
Foster Child S 
Kids With Guns S 
Long Slab aka Milk Duds S 
Narcissism S 
Pillsbury S 
Twist and Shout S 

Ankles Away 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Eddie Whittemore, Paul Sloan - 1991
Page Views: 3,969
Submitted By: saxfiend on Nov 18, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Ankles Away (5.9+) on the face to the left, Twist ...

Description 

This is a fun and challenging sport climb; the crux is between the third and fourth bolts. Don't miss Ankles Away when you're at Fosters!

An interesting bit of trivia on the name of the route: According to Arno Ilgner, Ankles Away got its name from an incident on Dihedral, a trad line just to the left. When the leader leaned back on his gear, the piece pulled and the rest zippered; the resulting fall broke both his ankles.


Location 

Dihedrals section, 5' left of Twist and Shout.


Protection 

Six bolts, ring anchors.



Photos of Ankles Away Slideshow Add Photo
Making a highstep on Ankles Away.
Making a highstep on Ankles Away.
Making the move between the first and second second clip. However, the second draw can be clipped easily before making this move.
Making the move between the first and second secon...
Getting thru the crimpy crux section of Ankles Away 9+
Getting thru the crimpy crux section of Ankles Awa...
Comments on Ankles Away Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kenan Herbert
Jan 27, 2013

I've heard the names were thought up when a climber tried to solo one of them and fell. It explains Narcissism, Ankels Away, and Twist and Shout pretty well I think.

By Brandon.Phillips
From: Double Springs, AL
Nov 13, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I think the Chatt Steel guidebook gives this a 5.8. This climb is definitely easier than 5.9+. People tend say this is harder than it is because of it being a slab. There are even nice little edges to stand on, all the way up. Fun route. Climbed this for the first time this weekend and don't remember any sketchy bolts or runnouts.

By Rohan R Rao
From: Jacksonville, Florida
Mar 24, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Yes. Chatt Steel gives it a 5.8 and it is definitely more than that, mostly at 5.9. Also, I think Chatt Steel (and also the MP description) gives it 6 bolts to anchors, where as it is 7 bolts to 2 anchors.. so if you are referring Chatt Steel, do carry that extra draw!