A classic area with a bunch of routes which are located on different sides of the same very large formation. There are some classic routes here, but most of them are difficult.
Drive to Rupprechtstegen, which is south of Velden. At the north end of the town, on your way to Velden, you'll see this crag on your left. There is parking on both sides of the street. You can also reach this crag relatively quickly and easily with the train from Nürnberg. If you choose this route, walk from the train station through Rupprechstegen (or along the river on the nice hiking trail) in the direction of Velden until you see this crag on your left. There's a bridge to cross from the trail to the town, and this bridge also happens to lie directly in front of the crag.
This super route has a bit of status to it, and is therefore a little polished, but it doesn't detract from the quality. The climbing is technical with small pockets and crimps to start with, a nice tricky section up high, and then a difficult overhang on pockets to close it out. Consistently difficult the whole length of the climb, with short sections of slightly increased difficulty followed by good rest positions....[more]Browse More Classics in International