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Hike past the tiered bivy spot on the far left side up to a ledge system. The route follows the face formed by the large gully under the "neck" of Sheeprock.
P1: There are two variations. The right is harder. Face climb near the edge of the right facing corner, until you have to traverse out over the roof, right. Ginish on a rounded arete.
P2: Excellent. This has exposed and wandering face climbing. The belay ledge is a little rotten and a large spooky block looms.
P3: This has sustained face and edges close to the huge, right-facing dihedral. Belay at the base of a dihedral.
You can escape right across bolted 5th class traverse to the saddle, or rap.
QDs only, two ropes for raps.
BETA PHOTO: P1, both variations.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up P3.
Found these on the rap. Pre bolts or short ropes?...
Mar 3, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c
I thought the left hand of the first pitch variations was slightly harder. In either case, the first pitch is the crux, but well-protected.
The second pitch, in my opinion, is the best pitch of 5.9 face in the Platte. I would say that it is the equivalent of the 2nd pitch of the Center Route on Cyn Pin. This pitch is long, sustained, well-protected, on amazing rock with a climactic end.
The third pitch has a very different feel. It is still excellent, but the style is totally different.
This is a terrific route.
|By Luke Clarke|
Aug 5, 2012
Excellent route. Carried 18 draws and used them all on p2 and nearly all on other pitches. You could easily back clean at a few places, but if you want to avoid that, take 18. They all are about 170-180 feet long. The route feels amazingly consistent at the grade with only a few full blown rests.