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Animal World
Routes Sorted
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Animal Instinct 
Animal Magnetism 
Animal Riots Activist 
Animation aka Jaycene's Dance 
Automatic Choke 
Balance, The 
Beast Food Left 
Beast Food Right 
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head 
Blockhead 
Cannabis Sportiva 
Closer To God 
Cold Snap 
Crack Corner 
Cujo Tranquilizer 
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed 
Evolution Revolution 
Familiar Strangers 
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) 
Fifth World, The 
Free Willie 
Global Gorilla 
Gull Whackers 
Hands of Destiny 
Hope and Pray 
Is It Ready Yet...Moe 
Isn't Life Strange 
Joint Venture 
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello 
Lazy Day 
Lovely to See You 
Melancholy Man 
New Beginnings 
Nice To Be Here 
Old Dihedral 
Piles of Trials 
Pit Bull Prowser 
Reversal Roof 
Ride My See-saw 
Split Personality 
Strange Times 
Sundog 
Talking Out Of Turn 
Threshold Of A Dream 
Triple Play 
Tuesday Afternoon 
Unfamiliar Strangers 
We Don't Do Crack 
Wine and Roses 

Animation aka Jaycene's Dance 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Gail Effron, 1996. Retrobolted by Rick Leitner and Chris Alber, 1997.
Page Views: 13,533
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Apr 14, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: 02-28-2004
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This description & its comments are combined. Since this was the earlier contribution, Jon Cannon's was merged into this one.

A great warm up or a good lead for 5.8 climbers (it's "Turbo Bitchin'," according to a friend of mine). Jugs are plentiful on this vertical face. The route is on the Lower Animal World cliff, and ascends an obvious line of bolts in the middle of a tall vertical face. The route lies just right of 'Joint Venture.'

This route is located on the wall facing west in the West Buttress area. Good holds are plentiful for the first 60 feet or so of this route, and then start to thin out somewhat. Balance and footwork are paramount for the final series of moves, where the wall bulges out slightly. A very fun route, with thoughtfully-placed bolts.


Protection 

10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A 60m rope is required to get down.



Photos of Animation aka Jaycene's Dance Slideshow Add Photo
Animation.
Animation.
Great climb.
Great climb.
Stephen Sandstrom climbing Animation.
Stephen Sandstrom climbing Animation.
Evan H. at the anchors on Animation. As a note of caution, there is a death block (+/- 150lbs) about 30 feet up on the left side of the route, just above the shadows in this picture. <br />(Update: climbed this route again in October '12. The large loose rock has been removed.)
BETA PHOTO: Evan H. at the anchors on Animation. As a note of ...
Scott at the anchors (just above the crux).
Scott at the anchors (just above the crux).
Steve enjoying the changes in the rock.
Steve enjoying the changes in the rock.
John leading Animation for the day's warm up. Patrick belays.
John leading Animation for the day's warm up. Patr...
Erica trying it out on top rope!
BETA PHOTO: Erica trying it out on top rope!
Lee at the roof.
Lee at the roof.
Contemplating the crux. When I first went for the crux, I would move to the left because I thought that was easier, but recently I discovered that going straight over the bulge works best. I highlighted in green some key holds that make the move pretty bomber, as at first they weren’t apparent to me. <br /> <br />Photo: Erica Fiorucci.
BETA PHOTO: Contemplating the crux. When I first went for the ...
Block with the X in the lower left corner.
BETA PHOTO: Block with the X in the lower left corner.
Comments on Animation aka Jaycene's Dance Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 12, 2012
By Victoria Bisharat
Jan 26, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 

The left anchor is getting a little bit sharp. Please be careful lowering off of the anchors! Needs to be replaced soon!

By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Oct 4, 2001

A great route. This route has plenty of holds as suggested. The length also adds to the enjoyment of the route. This is certainly a great warm up for the others on this crag. I would suggest 'Free Willie' and the 12a that you first see when you arrive from the left of the crag, a beauty. This is a super route for a new leader, not sure how to interpret 'Turbo Bitchin', but definitely great.

By Michael Walker
From: Loveland, CO
Jul 1, 2002

Before it was bolted, this route was led with gear and named "Animation 5.9". After receiving bolts and letter grade drop in difficulty it was listed in Rolofson's guide as "Jaycene's Dance 5.8"....

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 13, 2002

This climb has now been retro-bolted. Between the 4th and 5th bolts is a ledge. At 5 feet 4 inches tall, this was the crux for me, getting that 5th clip. I could not reach it from the ledge and had to make a move to get higher. A fall back to the 4th bolt would have been a good one. If you fall while pulling up rope for the clip.... Diminutive folks may wish a nut or two to place for this move. Just a suggestion.

BTW, adding bolts to a climb does not generally give you the right to rename it....

By Brian T. Wandzilak
Sep 3, 2002

Despite the route names or bolting issues, the bottom line is that this is a great route for any intermediate leader. Whenever you need a good hand or foothold, there seems to be one there for you. Very little exposure on the way up to sketch you out. At the top there is a decent view up and down the canyon. Simply an all around good climb and one many should put on their "tick" list.

By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Jun 26, 2003

Great route to bring a friend just getting into the sport. The positively positive blocks make it a blast and such a nice view from the top.

By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Mar 1, 2004

A single 5.8 move just before the anchors, and the rest of the route a grade or two lower. Nice and continuous, though.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 19, 2004

Random comments: The bolted route right of this is now listed here under "Unfamiliar Strangers, 5.9+", I believe. We climbed both of these and enjoyed them.

The first "action photo" on this page is not Jaycene's Dance. I don't have enough knowledge of this crag to know what route is actually picured, but it's definitely not this route.

We got lost on the way to Animal World, and climbed an obscure bolted route which is on a crag about 100 yards due west of Animal World, with the base 50 vertical feet higher. It is a fun route, probably only 5.8 with about 7 bolts on it. It is just right of a gully but I have no idea what crag it is on. There are some more bolts right of this line.

By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Sep 19, 2004

George: Did you end up at Mine Hole Crag, and climb Sofa Kingdon?

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 19, 2004

Bingo, Jake, that's it. Thanks for clearing this up.

By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Sep 20, 2004

The "first action photo" would be Hands of Destiny. It is located just right (2000 feet) of Jaycene's Dance.

By Ryan Malaty
From: Broomfield, CO
May 2, 2007

Good climb on a nice day, don't catch it on a bad day though! haha.

By Talia
From: SLC, UT
Aug 14, 2007

Only had time to climb for a day in a half in Colorado and really enjoyed this climb. A nice change from the slab climbing. A bit more vert and gotta love the changes in the type of climbing.

By j gatchalian
From: denver, co
Nov 1, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Awesome! Probably the best of its grade that I have been on in a long time. Would recommend that everyone try it.

By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Nov 7, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This route and Mosquito Burrito (Bowling Alley) have very similar position, although MB is more sustained, and the climbing is more intricate, for the grade.

I enjoyed this route, although I thought the bolt above the first ledge-break was placed too high. I am 6', and I had to stretch for it. A shorter climber would have to do a high-step move off the ledge, and a fall there would be a big one onto the slab below after you bounced off of the ledge.

A trick that I learned from setting gym routes was to never set holds above elbow height, with the arm raised above my head. That pretty much assured that a shorter person had an equal chance of reaching it from the same stance. Maybe some of these route developers should consider the same practice when placing bolts.

That bolt should be a foot lower, and then the route would be better, IMO.

By Greg
From: Santa Cruz, CA
Apr 13, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

In the route description it says "Very fun route with thoughtfully placed bolts". My thoughts exactly.

By J. Fox
From: Black Hawk, CO
Jun 2, 2008

I really liked this one as well. My first 5.8 lead ever. Positive holds everywhere. The only cruxen for me were between bolts 2 & 3 and then just below the last bolt but there was/is a nice undercling there. It was wet when I climbed it on 5/28/08. I'm either getting better, or its not really a 5.8 but maybe a 5.7-.

By khoa
From: 303
Jun 20, 2008

There's a very loose flake about the size of a plate towards the top of the route (after the big ledge a bit). I couldn't pull it out, but it was freely moving in place.

By John Fodor
From: Bolder, Co
Aug 27, 2008

It's fun to skip the bolts and place gear on this route. RPs to #0.75 Camalot.

By chris kline
From: Boulder, Co / Jervis Bay , Aus
Jun 4, 2009

Great fun route - The bulge goes easily, it's getting up and close to it that was the crux for me!

By keith story
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 31, 2010

Good beginner's route. Fun speed climbing for intermediates/advanced climbers. Do this route, whether it is a new adventure or as a way to get your blood flowing.

Great, comfy area too!

By Benten
From: Denver
Oct 9, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

It is a lesson in climbing technique! It starts off standard, goes into a mantel, a sidepull, then a place to jam a crack. Ends with a lesson in undercling technology, and there is always a sloper to get familiar with. Have fun.

By Mike G-Status
May 6, 2011

There's a 200+ lb rock about 20-30 feet up on the left side near a bush that looks like it might just get pulled out if you were to unwittingly use it as a hold, as I started to do.... It's not too hard to miss, though. Other than that the rock is really solid. Fun climb!

By Coco Bell
May 30, 2012

Awesome route, not the best if you are bringing a beginner out.... The crux is at the top which is amazingly tall for a top-rope!!

By JJR
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 12, 2012

Such a fun route! Definitely one of the better 8s I've done. Fun moves, good to put a beginner on top rope I would think (but really fun to lead). If you are leading it, it's hard to reach the 5th (?) bolt from the big ledge.... I'm 5'8", and I had to do a little move to reach the bolt. All in all, great route! Do it if you're in the area!