2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This description & its comments are combined. Since this was the earlier contribution, Jon Cannon's was merged into this one.
A great warm up or a good lead for 5.8 climbers (it's "Turbo Bitchin'," according to a friend of mine). Jugs are plentiful on this vertical face. The route is on the Lower Animal World cliff, and ascends an obvious line of bolts in the middle of a tall vertical face. The route lies just right of 'Joint Venture.'
This route is located on the wall facing west in the West Buttress area. Good holds are plentiful for the first 60 feet or so of this route, and then start to thin out somewhat. Balance and footwork are paramount for the final series of moves, where the wall bulges out slightly. A very fun route, with thoughtfully-placed bolts.
10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A 60m rope is required to get down.
A great route. This route has plenty of holds as suggested. The length also adds to the enjoyment of the route. This is certainly a great warm up for the others on this crag. I would suggest 'Free Willie' and the 12a that you first see when you arrive from the left of the crag, a beauty. This is a super route for a new leader, not sure how to interpret 'Turbo Bitchin', but definitely great.
This climb has now been retro-bolted. Between the 4th and 5th bolts is a ledge. At 5 feet 4 inches tall, this was the crux for me, getting that 5th clip. I could not reach it from the ledge and had to make a move to get higher. A fall back to the 4th bolt would have been a good one. If you fall while pulling up rope for the clip.... Diminutive folks may wish a nut or two to place for this move. Just a suggestion.
BTW, adding bolts to a climb does not generally give you the right to rename it....
Despite the route names or bolting issues, the bottom line is that this is a great route for any intermediate leader. Whenever you need a good hand or foothold, there seems to be one there for you. Very little exposure on the way up to sketch you out. At the top there is a decent view up and down the canyon. Simply an all around good climb and one many should put on their "tick" list.
Random comments: The bolted route right of this is now listed here under "Unfamiliar Strangers, 5.9+", I believe. We climbed both of these and enjoyed them.
The first "action photo" on this page is not Jaycene's Dance. I don't have enough knowledge of this crag to know what route is actually picured, but it's definitely not this route.
We got lost on the way to Animal World, and climbed an obscure bolted route which is on a crag about 100 yards due west of Animal World, with the base 50 vertical feet higher. It is a fun route, probably only 5.8 with about 7 bolts on it. It is just right of a gully but I have no idea what crag it is on. There are some more bolts right of this line.
Only had time to climb for a day in a half in Colorado and really enjoyed this climb. A nice change from the slab climbing. A bit more vert and gotta love the changes in the type of climbing.
By j gatchalian From: denver, co Nov 1, 2007 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
Awesome! Probably the best of its grade that I have been on in a long time. Would recommend that everyone try it.
By KCP From: Eldorado Springs, CO Nov 7, 2007 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
This route and Mosquito Burrito (Bowling Alley) have very similar position, although MB is more sustained, and the climbing is more intricate, for the grade.
I enjoyed this route, although I thought the bolt above the first ledge-break was placed too high. I am 6', and I had to stretch for it. A shorter climber would have to do a high-step move off the ledge, and a fall there would be a big one onto the slab below after you bounced off of the ledge.
A trick that I learned from setting gym routes was to never set holds above elbow height, with the arm raised above my head. That pretty much assured that a shorter person had an equal chance of reaching it from the same stance. Maybe some of these route developers should consider the same practice when placing bolts.
That bolt should be a foot lower, and then the route would be better, IMO.
By Greg From: Santa Cruz, CA Apr 13, 2008 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
In the route description it says "Very fun route with thoughtfully placed bolts". My thoughts exactly.
I really liked this one as well. My first 5.8 lead ever. Positive holds everywhere. The only cruxen for me were between bolts 2 & 3 and then just below the last bolt but there was/is a nice undercling there. It was wet when I climbed it on 5/28/08. I'm either getting better, or its not really a 5.8 but maybe a 5.7-.
Good beginner's route. Fun speed climbing for intermediates/advanced climbers. Do this route, whether it is a new adventure or as a way to get your blood flowing.
Great, comfy area too!
By Benten From: Denver Oct 9, 2010 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
It is a lesson in climbing technique! It starts off standard, goes into a mantel, a sidepull, then a place to jam a crack. Ends with a lesson in undercling technology, and there is always a sloper to get familiar with. Have fun.
There's a 200+ lb rock about 20-30 feet up on the left side near a bush that looks like it might just get pulled out if you were to unwittingly use it as a hold, as I started to do.... It's not too hard to miss, though. Other than that the rock is really solid. Fun climb!
Such a fun route! Definitely one of the better 8s I've done. Fun moves, good to put a beginner on top rope I would think (but really fun to lead). If you are leading it, it's hard to reach the 5th (?) bolt from the big ledge.... I'm 5'8", and I had to do a little move to reach the bolt. All in all, great route! Do it if you're in the area!
On June 9th, Dale Haas and I replaced the old anchor with two 1/2" SS Powers bolts. We added SS quicklinks and SS rappel rings to the hangers. The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA)(www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.