Animation aka Jaycene's Dance 5.8
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Richard Rossiter and Gail Effron, 1996. Retrobolted by Rick Leitner and Chris Alber, 1997. |
| Submitted By: | Peter Franzen on Apr 14, 2001 |
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BETA PHOTO: 02-28-2004
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Description This description & its comments are combined. Since this was the earlier contribution, Jon Cannon's was merged into this one. A great warm up or a good lead for 5.8 climbers (it's "Turbo Bitchin'," according to a friend of mine). Jugs are plentiful on this vertical face. The route is on the Lower Animal World cliff, and ascends an obvious line of bolts in the middle of a tall vertical face. The route lies just right of 'Joint Venture.' This route is located on the wall facing west in the West Buttress area. Good holds are plentiful for the first 60 feet or so of this route, and then start to thin out somewhat. Balance and footwork are paramount for the final series of moves, where the wall bulges out slightly. A very fun route, with thoughtfully-placed bolts.
Protection 10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A 60m rope is required to get down.
Great climb.
| Scott at the anchors (just above the crux).
| Steve enjoying the changes in the rock.
| BETA PHOTO: Erica trying it out on top rope!
| BETA PHOTO: Contemplating the crux. When I first went for the ...
| Stephen Sandstrom climbing Animation.
| John leading Animation for the day's warm up. Patr...
| Animation.
| Lee at the roof.
| BETA PHOTO: Evan H. at the anchors on Animation. As a note of ...
| BETA PHOTO: Block with the X in the lower left corner.
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| Comments on Animation aka Jaycene's Dance |
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By Jeff Lockyer From: Canmore, AB Oct 4, 2001
| A great route. This route has plenty of holds as suggested. The length also adds to the enjoyment of the route. This is certainly a great warm up for the others on this crag. I would suggest 'Free Willie' and the 12a that you first see when you arrive from the left of the crag, a beauty. This is a super route for a new leader, not sure how to interpret 'Turbo Bitchin', but definitely great. |
By Michael Walker From: Loveland, CO Jul 1, 2002
| Before it was bolted, this route was led with gear and named "Animation 5.9". After receiving bolts and letter grade drop in difficulty it was listed in Rolofson's guide as "Jaycene's Dance 5.8".... |
By Anonymous Coward Aug 13, 2002
| This climb has now been retro-bolted. Between the 4th and 5th bolts is a ledge. At 5 feet 4 inches tall, this was the crux for me, getting that 5th clip. I could not reach it from the ledge and had to make a move to get higher. A fall back to the 4th bolt would have been a good one. If you fall while pulling up rope for the clip.... Diminutive folks may wish a nut or two to place for this move. Just a suggestion. BTW, adding bolts to a climb does not generally give you the right to rename it.... |
By Brian T. Wandzilak Sep 3, 2002
| Despite the route names or bolting issues, the bottom line is that this is a great route for any intermediate leader. Whenever you need a good hand or foothold, there seems to be one there for you. Very little exposure on the way up to sketch you out. At the top there is a decent view up and down the canyon. Simply an all around good climb and one many should put on their "tick" list. |
By Matt Chan From: Denver, CO Jun 26, 2003
| Great route to bring a friend just getting into the sport. The positively positive blocks make it a blast and such a nice view from the top. |
By Jake Wyatt From: Longmont, CO Mar 1, 2004
| A single 5.8 move just before the anchors, and the rest of the route a grade or two lower. Nice and continuous, though. |
By George Bell From: Boulder, CO Sep 19, 2004
| Random comments: The bolted route right of this is now listed here under "Unfamiliar Strangers, 5.9+", I believe. We climbed both of these and enjoyed them. The first "action photo" on this page is not Jaycene's Dance. I don't have enough knowledge of this crag to know what route is actually picured, but it's definitely not this route. We got lost on the way to Animal World, and climbed an obscure bolted route which is on a crag about 100 yards due west of Animal World, with the base 50 vertical feet higher. It is a fun route, probably only 5.8 with about 7 bolts on it. It is just right of a gully but I have no idea what crag it is on. There are some more bolts right of this line. |
By Jake Wyatt From: Longmont, CO Sep 19, 2004
| George: Did you end up at Mine Hole Crag, and climb Sofa Kingdon? |
By George Bell From: Boulder, CO Sep 19, 2004
| Bingo, Jake, that's it. Thanks for clearing this up. |
By Greg Hand From: Golden, CO Sep 20, 2004
| The "first action photo" would be Hands of Destiny. It is located just right (2000 feet) of Jaycene's Dance. |
By Ryan Malaty From: Broomfield, CO May 2, 2007
| Good climb on a nice day, don't catch it on a bad day though! haha. |
By Talia From: SLC, UT Aug 14, 2007
| Only had time to climb for a day in a half in Colorado and really enjoyed this climb. A nice change from the slab climbing. A bit more vert and gotta love the changes in the type of climbing. |
By gatch From: denver, co Nov 1, 2007 rating: 5.8
| Awesome! Probably the best of its grade that I have been on in a long time. Would recommend that everyone try it. |
By KCP From: Eldorado Springs, CO Nov 7, 2007 rating: 5.8
| This route and Mosquito Burrito (Bowling Alley) have very similar position, although MB is more sustained, and the climbing is more intricate, for the grade. I enjoyed this route, although I thought the bolt above the first ledge-break was placed too high. I am 6', and I had to stretch for it. A shorter climber would have to do a high-step move off the ledge, and a fall there would be a big one onto the slab below after you bounced off of the ledge. A trick that I learned from setting gym routes was to never set holds above elbow height, with the arm raised above my head. That pretty much assured that a shorter person had an equal chance of reaching it from the same stance. Maybe some of these route developers should consider the same practice when placing bolts. That bolt should be a foot lower, and then the route would be better, IMO. |
By Greg From: Santa Cruz, CA Apr 13, 2008 rating: 5.8
| In the route description it says "Very fun route with thoughtfully placed bolts". My thoughts exactly. |
By J. Fox From: Black Hawk, CO Jun 2, 2008
| I really liked this one as well. My first 5.8 lead ever. Positive holds everywhere. The only cruxen for me were between bolts 2 & 3 and then just below the last bolt but there was/is a nice undercling there. It was wet when I climbed it on 5/28/08. I'm either getting better, or its not really a 5.8 but maybe a 5.7-. |
By khoa From: 303 Jun 20, 2008
| There's a very loose flake about the size of a plate towards the top of the route (after the big ledge a bit). I couldn't pull it out, but it was freely moving in place. |
By John Fodor From: Bolder, Co Aug 27, 2008
| It's fun to skip the bolts and place gear on this route. RPs to #0.75 Camalot. |
By chris kline From: Boulder, Co / Jervis Bay , Aus Jun 4, 2009
| Great fun route - The bulge goes easily, it's getting up and close to it that was the crux for me! |
By keith story From: Boulder, CO Aug 31, 2010
| Good beginner's route. Fun speed climbing for intermediates/advanced climbers. Do this route, whether it is a new adventure or as a way to get your blood flowing. Great, comfy area too! |
By Benten From: Denver Oct 9, 2010 rating: 5.8
| It is a lesson in climbing technique! It starts off standard, goes into a mantel, a sidepull, then a place to jam a crack. Ends with a lesson in undercling technology, and there is always a sloper to get familiar with. Have fun. |
By Mike G-Status May 6, 2011
| There's a 200+ lb rock about 20-30 feet up on the left side near a bush that looks like it might just get pulled out if you were to unwittingly use it as a hold, as I started to do.... It's not too hard to miss, though. Other than that the rock is really solid. Fun climb! |
By Cori Bellis May 30, 2012
| Awesome route, not the best if you are bringing a beginner out.... The crux is at the top which is amazingly tall for a top-rope!! |
By JJR From: Boulder, CO Jun 12, 2012
| Such a fun route! Definitely one of the better 8s I've done. Fun moves, good to put a beginner on top rope I would think (but really fun to lead). If you are leading it, it's hard to reach the 5th (?) bolt from the big ledge.... I'm 5'8", and I had to do a little move to reach the bolt. All in all, great route! Do it if you're in the area! |
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