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California
> Lake Tahoe
> I-80 Corridor
> Auburn & Grass…
> Auburn SRA
> Cave Valley (ak…
> Horseshoe Canyon
Animal Style
5.12a/b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.6 from 29
votes
Routes in Horseshoe Canyon
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Animal Style S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Bizatch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Climbers Beware S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Comfortably Dumb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Creepshow S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Diagon Alley S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Human Oddity S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Phantom of the Opera S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Uncomfortably Dumb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Vacavillain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,893 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Oct 18, 2002 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid
Details
Most of Auburn SRA is open from 7 am to sunset. Leave early enough to be off the trails before dusk. Most parking requires self registration fees in cash envelopes (or annual state park passes), and is enthusiastically enforced. Check the Auburn State Recreation Area website at parks.ca.gov/?page_id=502 for current information. Note that the park's policy is that technical roped climbing is only permitted in the Cave Valley/Quarry area - outside the fenced private quarry at the back. Unroped climbing - aka bouldering or DWS - is allowed everywhere with a safe landing.
Description
This route ascends the featured slightly overhung section of Horseshoe canyon, and is the shortest route on the wall. It is the second bolted climb from the left.
Climb up a really technical start to a dyno move after the second bolt, afterwards the climbing is easier until an interesting move near the anchors. Stemming out to the right in the crux is cheating!
Climb up a really technical start to a dyno move after the second bolt, afterwards the climbing is easier until an interesting move near the anchors. Stemming out to the right in the crux is cheating!
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