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(u) Red Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 
Amphetamine Grip T 
Animal Farm S 
Bay of Pigs S 
Bill's Flake T 
Breakdown in Paradise S 
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 
Commie Pinkos S 
Dances with Clams S 
Dirty Pinkos S 
Finger Puppet S 
Fingers of Fate T 
Flex T 
Gulag Archipelago S 
I Almost Died T 
Lets Face It S 
Moscow T 
Orgasmophoria S 
Papillion S 
Peking T 
Phantasmagoria S 
Pop Art S 
Ride The Lightning S 
Sole Survivor S 
Straight Outta' Peking S 
Super Slab T 
Titanium Jag T 

Animal Farm 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ted Stahl, Jeff Frizzell
Page Views: 791
Submitted By: Rod J. on Nov 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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1st pitch of Super Slab is to the right (NW). Bela...

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2015 - Several Areas MORE INFO >>>


Start on top of the 15' boulder around the corner from the start of Super Slab. 1st crux is right off the block. Use a stick clip if there is any question about making the 1st clip - it's a long way back down to the ground. After 40' of typical Smith moves on tuff, you reach the 2nd crux (no more beta here). Finish on the East set of Super Slab anchors. You can climb SS to put up a TR. Good rock as long as you don't go too far left.


~ 7 bolts. Rings at the top.

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By another Chad
Mar 17, 2014

Fairly fun climbing with the occasional choss.

By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Sep 22, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fair bit of scary looseness on this thing. I could only recommend it if you have to climb a 5.10 and Bay of Pigs, Let's Face It, Dancing For Clams, and Phantasmagoria are all taken. Super-awkward bouldery move to romping to a single slabby move up high. Don't fall before you make the first clip, or you'll die.
By Erik Keever
Oct 3, 2015

If you've got any sense, you'll look at the funky start, then at the death fall if you make a mistake, and stand on the boulder to take the first clip before climbing.

The funkiness fades rapidly from mind and the rest is fun, IMO. I was actually a bit sad when it slabbed out and finished :)

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