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Anguish of Captain Bligh 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 2,084
Submitted By: Jacob Neathawk on Nov 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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What a line!


To the left of Harpoon, climb the thin cracks using the crack as well as holds on the face. Also easily toproped.


Small nuts for the crux. Some people prefer offset Aliens. I found the perfect spot for a #4 BD and then put a #5 right above that to protect the crux. Small cams protect the top.

Photos of Anguish of Captain Bligh Slideshow Add Photo
reachy, bouldery FUN
reachy, bouldery FUN
Anguish of Captain Bligh, 5.11b. Starts left of Ha...
Anguish of Captain Bligh, 5.11b. Starts left of Ha...
 balancy start
balancy start
near the finish
near the finish

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By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Dec 10, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

GEAR BETA for anyone who wants it: #5 and #6 stopper (or 2 #5s), yellow TCU, and #1 camalot for the topout.
By Stephen F
From: GA/CO
Nov 30, 2009

Many gear combos are possible; just keep in mind that the business is pretty close to the deck. Consider the zipper effect (i.e. place a cam low).
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Nov 1, 2011

Great Climb!! Some tricky moves down low, but fun all the way through. Good pro, even though at first glance it looks pretty blank. A Must do!!
By Rick Carpenter
From: Banner Elk, NC
Jul 21, 2013

Great route with bomber pro
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