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The Angry Inch 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jared Nielson
Page Views: 4,787
Submitted By: mattjbudd on Sep 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (98)
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This is my Bro-in-law redpointing this sweet climb...

Description 

This is a very classic climb. Very steep and fun!! The .11c rating comes from the first 10 feet of the climb. Then after that, nothing is harder than a .11a.


Location 

Second route from the left as you enter the pipeline.


Protection 

Bolts to 2 chains



Photos of The Angry Inch Slideshow Add Photo
This is me (Matt Budd) on the angry inch.
This is me (Matt Budd) on the angry inch.
nikki at the top
nikki at the top
Angry Itch
Angry Itch
itchy cobbles
itchy cobbles
The angry inch
BETA PHOTO: The angry inch
almost to the chains
almost to the chains
Comments on The Angry Inch Add Comment
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By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
Nov 9, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is way steep but with huge holds. Climb it like an ape. I believe the name of this climb is The Angry Inch. It is the second climb from left. The climb to the left of it is 11d.

By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
Nov 9, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Feels like 11a to me

By Nicholas Yaskoff
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 22, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I was there with a friend who knew the guy who bolted the route. As mentioned previously the name of this route is "The Angry Inch" and I believe it originally had a rating of 11c. Great climb with a terrific sequence of long reachy moves.

By buckeeb
Oct 13, 2008

Glad I onsighted this while it was still an 11c- Very fun route. Worth doing.

Hey Kip long time no see!

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Jul 25, 2009

  • This is the second route from the left in the Pipeline.
  • Throught the swath of chalk on the grading cobble it still seems as though local concensus is 11c as far as we were able to tell.
  • 60 feet is quite generous for the length of the route, this rig is no longer than about 40 feet.

Really fun steep climbing on big, positive but greasy cobbles. Probably easier the faster you move or the better you know the route. On this route probably half or more of the holds that you grab are individual cobbles which is rare. Not so many pockets or pebbly cobble holds as on other routes.

By Jason Stevens
From: Ephraim, UT
Sep 4, 2009

FA: Jared Nielson

By Tara Hansen
Apr 21, 2014

I fell in love with this route! Super fun to work and figure out. The beginning moves are the crux. At the last bolt there's a well hidden hand, but if you cant find it just skip the clip and go for the chains!