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Angry Grandma 

Hueco: V6+ Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6+ Font: 7A [details]
FA: Eric Brown
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 403
Submitted By: PDub-Trad on Jul 20, 2010

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Description 

Potentially one of the most classic problems at the Garden. Tucked in the back border and far right (if your facing the original garden from the road) this problem is something out of Bishop or J-tree. Unlike many problems at the Garden that feel contrived butt starts and shorty one move wonders Angry Grandma is big, tall scary and is aesthetically appealing from all angles. The starting moves are quite reasonable to the V3+ boulderer, but moves throughs its midpoint and highpoint are dangerous and difficult.

It was amazing to hear that the routes first ascentist sent this problem alone after working it with others. The problem archs the boulderer out over an extremely bad landing with difficult moves high off the deck.

While taking my 3 month year old to the Garden I photographed a young strong boulderer attempting the route. I goated him that a send might be the problems Second Ascent as I had heard of no one else since Eric. He made the initial moves look easy, worked the middle and looked ready to send. My little one forced me away that evening and to this day I wonder if that OSU student, strong red-headed dude ever sent?

Location 

The back edge of the Original Garden to the facing from road right. To hike uphill and to the roadside right would take you to the bolted cliffband that marks the edge and end of The Garden. Only one bolted route is present with 3 other T/R trad lead climbs.

Protection 

Pad(s) lots of em
Spotters (ones willing to actually catch you)


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