Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Second Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angles Away T 
Back for Seconds T 
Big Top project S 
Chucky Cheese T 
Johnny Rotten T 
Journey through Gwondonaland T 
Left End Corners T 
Needs a Bolt T 
Slap Happy S 
Whatever T 
Unsorted Routes:

Angles Away 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 978
Submitted By: phil broscovak on May 30, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Chuck leading the 1st ascent of the very steep cr...

Description 

For the sake of clarity, I am only going to describe the 1st pitch and hope that those more currently informed will add in details of the other two pitches. When looking at the 2nd Buttress from down river, there are two prominent geologic features: a HUGE roof system and a big, left-facing, left-leaning corner system. The big corner is 'Angles Away'. It is obvious and easy to get to.

From the *Sugar Cube, scramble up to the flat rocks at the base of the routes 'Angles Away' and 'Needs a Bolt'. The 1st pitch of 'Angles Away' is an acute angle dihedral with the right face overhanging steeply and the left face kicked back less than vertical. Once you're into the heart of it all, the name of the route will be abundantly clear. The gear is solid but a wee bit tricky, and the climbing is thoughtful. Some would invariable call this 1st pitch 5.10, but I think all things considered that 9+ is more correct.

  • The Sugar Cube is the aptly named chunk of stone right at the parking area for the 2nd Buttress. The Sugar Cube has some fun bouldering on it. While you are there, use your knowledge of geometry, geology, and physics to imagine where the cube started from.


Protection 

Thin pro, mostly wireds and some tri-cams, though up higher some mid sized pieces can be found. The pro is good but you have to hang and tinker it in.



Photos of Angles Away Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up the pitch 1 corner.
Looking up the pitch 1 corner.
Comments on Angles Away Add Comment
Show which comments
By phil broscovak
May 30, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The picture of chuck is on the crux of the 2nd pitch which is significantly harder than the 1st pich.

By Jamie Estep
From: Crested Butte, CO
Feb 17, 2011

I would say 5.9 first pitch, 5.10+ for pitch 2. The dihedral is far more tricky to protect than one would think.

By 007
From: cold as it gets, CO
Apr 30, 2012

10+ for the second pitch, huh??

By phil broscovak
Aug 6, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

9+ /10- for the first pitch and 11+/12- for the second pitch.