By Jay Knower Administrator From: Campton, NH Jul 30, 2009
I wonder about this route. The guidebook says that from the flake, you continue up to the thin crack and then left onto the crux face. The description above makes it sound like you avoid the flake and thin crack entirely. I wonder which is the true route.
I also heard that a hold broke on the crux face. Does anyone know about this?
I think the guide's description is the proper one. From the flake you do a cool undercling move, then up the think crack, all on relatively decent holds. Not sure if anything broke or not, but it still goes, even if the crux crimp is thin and pretty sharp. If that hold were better, I think this would be a classic 11 for the lake, but as is I think it detracts a bit from the quality, and the 5.12 grade maybe scares people away.
By Remo From: Madison, WI Apr 9, 2014 rating: 5.12a/b7b26VIII+26E5 6a
The upper crux made the route feel harder than most other 12.a's I've done at the lake. The climbing starts easy and then progressively gets harder and pumpier as you get to the finish. Thin crimps and devils lake high steppin' describe this one best. Would be a fun lead!