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Alien Head Area
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Alien Head S 
Angel's Desire S 
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Angel's Desire 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 895
Submitted By: toddgordon on Apr 29, 2010

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Angel's Desire profile. The route goes up near the...


Angel's Desire is on a smallish spire/boulder that faces south, and is on the hillside directly east of the Rattlesnake parking lot. It is about 20 yards past The Neenee. Can easily be set up as a top rope. The climbing is on flakes and odd/cool tiny square mini-knobs, which are found on many of the routes in this area of Rattlesnake, but really nowhere else in the Park.


Hike east from the Rattlesnake parking lot, across Rattlesnake wash, and up a gulley; soon, climbable formations will be seen up and to the left. This formation is just out of view from the parking lot.


4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (quick draws only).

Photos of Angel's Desire Slideshow Add Photo
Angel's Desire.
Angel's Desire.
Angel's Desire. Photo by Blitzo.
Angel's Desire. Photo by Blitzo.
Angel's Desire (5.9), Joshua Tree NP
BETA PHOTO: Angel's Desire (5.9), Joshua Tree NP

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By Michael Clark
From: Ames, IA
Nov 14, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Nice little climb to warm up on. Fun little stems at the start. Two horns provide some interesting holds. The crux is at the top, a feel around for tall climbers and a good static for shorter climbers.
By C Miller
Jan 3, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun knobby climbing up this mini spire which features poor rock down low to great rock higher. Don't miss the "angel wing" feature which is actually solidly attatched. Easy downclimb off the backside.
By rockcarl
From: Durango, CO
Nov 29, 2013

Lots of rope drag on the rock if you try to lower off through the rings - but a short walk-off/downclimb is available to avoid that. A fun climb!
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