|Upper Major Mass & Jungle Gym Tower
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Angel's Crack sits on the highest cliff band of the Major Mass of Doorway Rocks. Start the climb at a 5 ft tall slab. Once on top of this slab you will see a very flat face with vertical and horizontal cracks in it. This is the Jolly Roger. Angel's Crack is around the adjacent corner to the right. Climb up the dihedral using stemming and jamming moves. There are also plenty of blocks and ledges to hold. Continue up the dihedral and pass the arrowhead slab on your left. Climb out of the dihedral and finish on the face at the top.
To get to the top of Angel's Crack, hike along the Devil's Doorway Trail and take the short scenic trail that dips down to the famous Devil's Doorway formation. There is a staircase that passes between two short walls of rock on the east end of this short trail. If you walk down these stairs you will see an outcropping straight ahead. Angel's Crack faces south off the end of this outcropping.
To get to the bottom of the climb from here, walk back up the stairs discussed earlier and take a right (east) down the slope through the woods (before you get back to the main Devil's Doorway Trail). This is the gully that sits between the Major Mass and Minor Mass. Hug the rock on your right and pass right (south) through the first "saddle" you see. Go through the saddle and turn right again (west) with the rock still to your right. You are now on the ledge that separates the Upper and Lower bands of the Major Mass. In Swartling's book on diagram 33E, page 141, you are standing somewhere between the words "Access" and "Angel's Traverse". Scramble west about 100 feet until you get to the base of the climb.
Doug Hemken leading "Angel's Crack" April 2011.
Adam just about to start the crux
Tom Anderson-Brown on Angel's Crack just below the...
Adam,below the crux
A headless Doug Hemken stemming to the heavens on ...
Adam just below the crux.
|By Jeff H|
Jun 14, 2002
Recently did this climb (6.01.02). It proved to be a very nice lead. Good pro, solid stances, and maybe a bit easy for the grade.
May 3, 2003
Great pro, big holds. This climb doesn't see as much climbing action as the main cliff band on the bluff, but stay away from this climb if you don't want to be bothered by tourists.
|By Doug Hemken|
Jul 22, 2005
One of the best 5.6 leads at the Lake!
Aug 6, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
Agreed, great 5.6. I thought the pro left something to be desired at the start for ~20ft.
From: Madison, WI
Jun 11, 2011
I also agree with Doug, great lead!