I did not lead it, but my partner wsa repeating it. THe pro was all there, but seemed to envolved equalized nuts and other errta
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 9, 2007
There are a few decent equalized placements and a few micro wires, however there is nothing for the last 20+ feet of the climb.
By Kris Gorny Administrator May 15, 2007 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a R
There used to be a pin placed in a horizontal crack higher up -- just past the crux to the right of the arete. Last year I didn't see it. Also, I used to place iffy RP's behind a small detached flake to the left of the arete but that thing is now moving.
Ultra sweet and spooky. Ditto on the equalized micro wires. I think if you skip those it would probably deserve the R rating, aside from the last part. In any case, its no give away if going for an onsight. A must do for the grade, but as Ladd says, you probably won't repeat it lol!
Amazing climbing and fun heady run out. I used some small cams for the horizontals and backed them up with tri cams but I think if I were to repeat it (which I would even though I wanted to pee myself) I would just take two sets of tri cams and be done with it. Stances are good for placing gear and you get an incredible view at the top!
By Chris Whisenhunt Administrator From: Fayetteville, WV Dec 8, 2012 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a R
Seemed a bit overhyped to me. Felt no harder than 5.9 and I was able to place gear about every 8 - 10 feet.
Super route, but that flake is on its way out. It's super flexy, moving about 1/4" by just pulling against it. Luckily you can stack bomber gear for the run out in the good horizontal. Not all that death defying, but definitely spicy.