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 ADVANCED
Glacier Point Apron
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angel's Approach T 
Apron Jam T 
Cold Fusion T,S 
Cow-Center Route, The T 
Cow-Left Side, The T 
Cow-Right Side, The T 
Galactic Hitchhiker T,S 
Goblet, The T,TR 
Goodrich Pinnacle-Left Side T 
Goodrich Pinnacle-Right Side T 
Goodrich to the Oasis T 
Grack - Center, The T 
Grack - Left Side, The T 
Grack, Marginal, The T 
Grack, Right Side, The T 
Lonely Dancer T 
McPherson Struts T 
Monday Morning Slab, Chouinard Crack T 
Monday Morning Slab, Harry Daley Route T 
Monday Morning Slab, Left Side T 
Monday Morning Slab, Right Side T 
Mr. Natural T 
Patio Pinnacle, Regular Route T 
Point Beyond T 
Point Beyond Direct T 
Variation on a Theme T,TR 

Angel's Approach 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tom Higgins et al
Page Views: 970
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Jun 9, 2009

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Description 

Combined with "Point Beyond Direct" and "Point Beyond", this route is the equal of "Goodrich Pinnacle." Clean and pure slab climbing!

P1 - (5.9) - follow the bolts upwards. About half of these were replaced in 2008. As you approach a large solution hole either traverse right (easier), or tag the hole and then traverse right. Belay at a two-bolt anchor near an overlap.

P2 - (5.8) - more friction up the left edge of some flakes. Move up to a passage between two opposing thin flakes, right of the major overlap. There is decent finger-sized gear here. Continue up the flake to the right to another two-bolt anchor.

P3 - (5.7) - more friction up and right to Lucifer's Ledges.


Location 

Start by getting to the Point Beyond. Left of the Point is a water groove. Just to the right of the groove is a line of bolts heading up towards Lucifer's Ledge.


Protection 

Mostly bolts (about half of which were replaced by the ASCA in the summer of 2008), but you will also want nuts and cams to 2".



Photos of Angel's Approach Slideshow Add Photo
From left of "Point Beyond", up the slab, then cut right.
BETA PHOTO: From left of "Point Beyond", up the slab, then cut...
Randy on P2
Randy on P2
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By jplaut
Oct 24, 2012

Although this route is technically not runout enough to warrant an "R" rating, it should be noted that the first bolt is around 25 ft. above the belay and a fall before clipping it would likely result in decking on the ledge. And, after that, the bolts are not very close together, maybe 15ft. apart at least. Be very confident on 5.9 slab before attempting.