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Angell Falls 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Allan Irwin, Eddie Medina, Sean Cobourn, Feb. 20, 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 604
Submitted By: Edward Medina on Feb 20, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: 1st belay. Just below the crux headwall pitch.

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Description 

Pitch 1. (5.8) Interesting slab climbing down low. Load up the horizontal with small camming units just as the route gets steeper. 2 bolts protect the steeper section. Route angles off drastically after this through a wildly sculpted face to a belay below the steeper headwall.
Pitch 2 (5.10) Seek out the best holds in the eyebrow littered face. Climb past two bolts to a lower angled face. If you are taller than 6' it may be considerably easier than 5.10. If not, lunge from a good edge at the second bolt to a large scooped hold (crux). Continue past one more bolt on the slabby face to a double bolted belay


Location 

Walk to the far right side of the cereal wall. Start just left of the 'waterfall'


Protection 

Bring small camming units and a few nuts. 5 protection bolts and double bolted belays.



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By Mike Reardon
Sep 27, 2010

P1: 150 feet to double bolts. Fun 5.8 down low, protected by a few bolts and random gear. It looks like the 2nd pitch is about 50 feet. Had a great view from the ledge!

By Edward Medina
Administrator
From: Charlotte, NC
Sep 30, 2010

Looks like this route is getting a little action. Mike, not sure if you did the second pitch, but be aware that it lacks a second bolt at the belay. I botched the initial placement and have not yet gotten back to drop in a good bolt. If you do the second pitch be prepared to rap from a single bolt.

By Edward Medina
Administrator
From: Charlotte, NC
Nov 6, 2010

Sean and I cleaned up the anchor on pitch 2 (11/5/2010).