Angel Dust is the splitter hand and finger crack that runs straight up the middle of PCP pinnacle. Clearly visible in the photo as well as from the road it is the most prominent feature on the wall. There are two ways to finish this climb. The splitter crack ends at a horizontal ledge about 25 feet from the summit. The standard and easier finish traverses left on this ledge about 15 feet and then goes up a delightful and well protected right leaning hand crack. This way goes at solid 5.7. The direct and much more difficult finish goes virtually straight up the steep wall at the end of the splitter crack. This variation has little or no pro and is solid hard 5.10. It is easy to top rope but daring to lead. The crux of the regular route comes about half way up at a rattly flake inside the crack. It is a thoughtful spot. Still the pro is mostly superb and the rock enjoyable. A well worth it route. Together with the "Mirror Crack" on Rosy Lane wall these two routes well exemplify the unusual qualities of Taylor Canyon climbing.
Standard Taylor crag rack. A little of everything from wires to wide. The route has really good gear most all the way.
At the top of the crack.
Caden in the crack.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jun 21, 2005
There is also a bolted face climb to the left of Angel Dust. Not sure how the original line went, but it probably follows the first 20 feet of Angel Dust, then breaks off to the left, chasing 6 or so bolts, then up to the ledge to a two bolt anchor. The climbing is superb (while it lasts, at least), with increasingly difficult climbing until it eases off a few feet below the ledge. The crux is a bit after the underling, with a few thin moves on sharp edges and crystals. I would guess that one could start independently of Angel Dust. We top roped it this way and the bottom half is really dirty and fairly uninteresting. 11c?ST
|By clay meier|
Sep 17, 2009
This climb is one of the best in Taylor. It is North facing so do it on a warmer day. It is also a bit pumpy (harder than 5.9?). I led the face above the ledge (instead of traversing left to the 5.7). It is good. The moves are all there and the pro is OK if you dont mind fiddling with it a bit. The longest runout I think I had on that section was about 15' with clean fall potential. I would recommend the direct finish if you are not too pumped when you get to the ledge.
Also bring 2 60 meter ropes to rap. The anchors for the rap are good but they are scary to get to from the summit (involves a scary downclimb to weigh the rappel)
|By Allen Hill|
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Sep 17, 2009
I haven't climbed it in twenty years, but it must be a great climb because I really remember it. I did with the infamous Doug Scott.
|By matthew lloyd|
From: Gunnison, Colorado
Jun 20, 2014
Phil and Clay, I have agree with you about the direct exit. It truly is the way to go for finishing the route. I think I managed to fit two nuts and a small hex on the face climb. If you look around, you will be able to find hands and feet to use. The route is a must do in Taylor Canyon.