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Routes in Main Wall
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Anegada Passage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Eros T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Eros Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Phasers On Stun T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Star Trekin' T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Winged Mongrel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Bob Rotert and Ted Anderson 1979 |
| Page Views: | 1,317 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Rotert on May 7, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Description
Anegada Passage, goes thru a left angling overhanging/roof crack/ flake type feature at the end of the Hawks Bill Traverse. Ted Anderson and I did it as a finish to the Hawks Bill traverse around 1979. It was never really documented in the local guide books. However, when checking these out I am guessing this may be the same route that was later called Campbell Crack and claimed as a FA by Doug Reed and Tommy Howard 1983, several years after Ted and I did it. However without having been there in many years I am not certain of that. The description of that climb sounds similar as well as the location given in the topo diagram of Selected Cilmbs in North Carolina and Thomas Kelly's guide to N.C.. Anegada is mentioned in the back of Thomas Kelly's guidebook but I remember him saying he wasn't sure where it was when he wrote that guide so he didn't add it to his diagram of the cliff. As I recall it is a high quality finish and a burly 5.10...
The name comes from a passage in the Caribbean between the British Virgin Islands and Anguilla . Notoriously called the OH-MY-GOD-A (Anegada) Passage. Its a straight in the Caribbean with some depths reaching more than 6,000 feet. Crazy currents flow through from the Atlantic as they feed into the Caribbean Sea and its not uncommon for waves to be slamming against the hull of a passing vessel from three different directions.I had a very memorable, wild and rough crossing on that passage in a severe storm with my dad in a sailboat one time . It was a wild experience and therefore an inspirational name for this wild climb.
Anegada Passage is a strait in the Caribbean, at 18°22′41″N 63°50′15″W / 18.377986°N 63.837433°W. It separates the British Virgin Islands and the British ruled Sombrero Island of Anguilla.
Tom Howard wrote:
Bob is correct. I always thought that Anegada Passage was a cool 20' horizontal flake crack on the top of Hawks Bill. He described Campbell Crack perfectly. Doug and I will just have to claim the second accent, maybe the third, fourth or fifth, who knows. Bob, thanks for the correction, looking forward to getting together when you visit NC.
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