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YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Herb Stillman
Page Views: 387
Submitted By: Chris McNeil on Jan 16, 2012
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Andromeda, 5.11.


After 10 feet up Zipper, head out left from the flake. After about 8 or ten feet (3 or 4 steps) head straight up. There is also a direct start which is 5.12.


This is about 8 feet left of Zipper.


TR anchors on top. You can lead this, place a cam in the Zipper flake before heading out left, also you can place a blue nut in the corner of Zipper where it zigs out left.

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By mnatti
Feb 13, 2012

This line (not really a variation at all) was lead on-sight by Herb, who stretched out right as far as he could (while balancing on the non-existent smears) to stuff gear into the Zipper flake as he went up.

By jim.dangle
Oct 28, 2012

So does this line go up the black streak visible in the picture? I have had trouble finding it before, but if it was led by by reaching right in to the Zipper, then it doesn't seem near as far over as I thought it was.


By Chris McNeil
From: Essex, MA
Jan 16, 2013

Jim, no it does not go all the way to the black streak. It follows up the slab about 6 feet parallel and left of the Zipper. Look for a tiny peanut about 10 feet off the ground, and then pretty much go straight up.