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 ADVANCED
Roadside Crag (CLOSED)
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Andromeda Strain 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: R. Snider, J. Bronaugh, 1984
Season: Shaded, sometimes damp.
Page Views: 3,973
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 11, 2006
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Katie on what may be the crux of Andromeda Strain....

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Description 

Great climb in the dry season, but can get a little damp in the wet ones. Start on easy moves to get into a huge corner with a handcrack. Jam and stem up the crack through sustained moves to reach the top. Belay and rap from webbing on trees, and if still present after all of these years, a small stopper placed in a horse's skull.


Location 

Go around to the far left and of Roadside Crag. This obvious, huge, right-facing corner is past the long slab in front of you but will appear in the distance and guide you in.


Protection 

A standard rack with a few extra hand-sized pieces.



Photos of Andromeda Strain Slideshow Add Photo
Erik just starting up Andromeda Strain.
Erik just starting up Andromeda Strain.
Brian's jamming?  Here's the proof.  He's about halfway up Andromeda Strain.
Brian's jamming? Here's the proof. He's about ha...
Such an amazing route. Photo: Chris Drover
Such an amazing route. Photo: Chris Drover
Comments on Andromeda Strain Add Comment
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By cjdrover
From: Somerville, MA
Nov 11, 2009

In addition to the webbing on the tree, there is (as of 11/2009) a two-bolt anchor with chain and a rap ring at the top of the route.

By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
May 16, 2010

A stiff 5.9. I personally thought it was a little over-rated.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 15, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

5-star fun thin hands jamming- mostly #1 camalot sized, although a green and a couple of golds also fit in there.

This route is not .10a, it's .9 at most, especially if you compare it to Rock Wars' upper section.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 7, 2011

Oddly enough, Having done Andromeda Strain and Rock Wars including the upper section multiple times each, even on the same weekends, I would have said A.S. is the harder route.
I suppose it may come down to hand size or climbing style.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
May 17, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

No move on this route is a 5.10 move. The climbing on this route is a lot more physical than Rock Wars and less physical than Autumn. Classic route, though. Loved it.