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Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag)
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Return of Chris Snyder, The S 
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Roadside Attraction T 
Runnin Down a Dream T 
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You Can Tune a Piano, but You Can't Tuna Fish S 

Andromeda Strain 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: R. Snider, J. Bronaugh, 1984
Season: Shaded, sometimes damp.
Page Views: 4,572
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Katie on what may be the crux of Andromeda Strain....

Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Great climb in the dry season, but can get a little damp in the wet ones. Start on easy moves to get into a huge corner with a handcrack. Jam and stem up the crack through sustained moves to reach the top. Belay and rap from webbing on trees, and if still present after all of these years, a small stopper placed in a horse's skull.

Location 

Go around to the far left and of Roadside Crag. This obvious, huge, right-facing corner is past the long slab in front of you but will appear in the distance and guide you in.

Protection 

A standard rack with a few extra hand-sized pieces.


Photos of Andromeda Strain Slideshow Add Photo
Such an amazing route. Photo: Chris Drover
Such an amazing route. Photo: Chris Drover
Brian's jamming?  Here's the proof.  He's about ha...
Brian's jamming? Here's the proof. He's about ha...
Erik just starting up Andromeda Strain.
Erik just starting up Andromeda Strain.
I had no idea what I was about to get myself into....
I had no idea what I was about to get myself into....

Comments on Andromeda Strain Add Comment
Show which comments
By cjdrover
From: Somerville, MA
Nov 11, 2009

In addition to the webbing on the tree, there is (as of 11/2009) a two-bolt anchor with chain and a rap ring at the top of the route.
By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
May 16, 2010

A stiff 5.9. I personally thought it was a little over-rated.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 15, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

5-star fun thin hands jamming- mostly #1 camalot sized, although a green and a couple of golds also fit in there.

This route is not .10a, it's .9 at most, especially if you compare it to Rock Wars' upper section.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 7, 2011

Oddly enough, Having done Andromeda Strain and Rock Wars including the upper section multiple times each, even on the same weekends, I would have said A.S. is the harder route.
I suppose it may come down to hand size or climbing style.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
May 17, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

No move on this route is a 5.10 move. The climbing on this route is a lot more physical than Rock Wars and less physical than Autumn. Classic route, though. Loved it.
By Andrew G
Jun 8, 2015
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a significant step up in difficulty from both Autumn and Rock Wars in my mind. Bring as many #2's as you've got!
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