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Andromeda Strain 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dave Davis, Don O'Kelley and B. Andre, November 1971
Page Views: 851
Submitted By: calitradclimber on Aug 31, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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I believe this is Andromeda Strain, as my memory s...

Description 

This is a great route, the crux is about 3/4 the way up, once you are in the crux keep going or you might get pumped out. TAKE WATER, especially if you are with a sprayer and you end up doing belay slave at the top. Here are some links, I believe this is the right one.

Remember Mr. Ego is NOT your best climbing buddy...!!!


Protection 

I don't do beta except for what the guide books and topos offer, half the fun is figuring it out on your own.



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By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 10, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

FA - D. Davis, D. O'Kelley and B. Andre 11/71 Oddly the FA party chose not to start the crack directly and placed a bolt on the face to the right. The direct start is worthy and slightly harder at about 5.8. One star out of five.

By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Mar 1, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Did this one yesterday and thought it ok. Easy to protect, small nuts worked great!(Don't load it up! This is a short one). Pretty much easy going most of the way. I chose not to protect the majority. Two thirds up good idea if you did not protect below, as a fall from that point could mean trouble. Fun warm up!

By Infernal Doom Fanatic
Oct 1, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Fun, worth doing but not that memorable. There are some short and sweet moves, but it's basically your typical J-Tree watershute climb.

By Blitzo
Oct 16, 2006

This is one of the only, somewhat worthwhile routes in the area.

By seamstress
Dec 28, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I was told that something broke off at the bottom and now the start is a 10a (but with a soft sandy landing). There isn't much to hold onto and the feet are all smears. The first time we tried this, several years ago, I couldn't do the start at all and needed a boost from my belayer. You can also put in a very small nut and use it to french free that move. But once you are off the ground, the moves to the bolt are below 5.7. This is a great climb for a cold day and a nice climb for a new-ish leader. If you include the first move, think of it as a 5.9.

By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Dec 30, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

It's a slab start, I don't see how anything could break off. If someone is going to call that a .10a you're going to need to build a gym around the rock and put tape on the holds. As of today, it was all of 5.7, though the start is probably a bit less.

By haishan
Dec 2, 2013

The route is closer to 100' if climbing to good anchors near the top. Spraying aside, be prepared for a cruxy start and then easy climbing to the bolt. True crack start is tricky and also worthwhile.