Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Andromeda Sprain Wall
Select Route:
Andromeda Sprain T 
Doctor Hook S 
Muffin Man S 
Old Ironsides S 

Andromeda Sprain 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 1,188
Submitted By: Erik Pohlman on May 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]



P1: Climb the crack angling up and right, ending at the point where the crack angles back left. Set up a belay at this point. Be careful lower on the pitch, due to somewhat tricky pro.

BETA ALERT: from the CAMM site - People, please protect the first crux moves well, because if you are going to fall this will be the place that it will occur. Put a Large hex or #13 stopper in to the left in the big downward flair. Do not put a cam in, it will walk up and out. Also up underneath the rib that sticks out right you can place a red #1 camalot or similiar cam underneath up in there. It would be a bad place to fall and rip gear. It is crucial that you have 2-3 pieces protecting this move as it would be a ground fall if all your gear ripped.

P2: Continue in the crack system up and left to a right facing dihedral crack. Some very fun moves take you to the top.


This is the right angling crack coming out of the small cave.


Gear to 3". A couple tricams may be helpful, especially for the belay.

Comments on Andromeda Sprain Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!