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The Andromeda Sprain Wall
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Andromeda Sprain 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 790
Submitted By: Erik Pohlman on May 12, 2007

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Description 

P1: Climb the crack angling up and right, ending at the point where the crack angles back left. Set up a belay at this point. Be careful lower on the pitch, due to somewhat tricky pro.

BETA ALERT: from the CAMM site - People, please protect the first crux moves well, because if you are going to fall this will be the place that it will occur. Put a Large hex or #13 stopper in to the left in the big downward flair. Do not put a cam in, it will walk up and out. Also up underneath the rib that sticks out right you can place a red #1 camalot or similiar cam underneath up in there. It would be a bad place to fall and rip gear. It is crucial that you have 2-3 pieces protecting this move as it would be a ground fall if all your gear ripped.


P2: Continue in the crack system up and left to a right facing dihedral crack. Some very fun moves take you to the top.


Location 

This is the right angling crack coming out of the small cave.


Protection 

Gear to 3". A couple tricams may be helpful, especially for the belay.



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