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Square Rock
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Android Power Pack 
Crack 
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NW Corner / Square Rock 
Yellow Christ 

Android Power Pack 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Christian Griffith
Page Views: 673
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Nov 10, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Android Power Pack starts on Yellow Christ but then trends left. While it doesn't look like much from the ground, the moves are fairly sustained and in-your-face all the way to the top of the rock, involving deadpoints for poor sidepulls and a lot of funky body english.

To the best of my knowledge this route has never been led. It would seem to be a very serious (no gear) proposition on the sharp end. Beware the old-school rating -- this is a stout climb!


Protection 

Slings for anchor bolts and a rope for top-roping.



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By Ben Hoyt
Nov 10, 2001

This is indeed "super-stout". Probably a touch harder than the rating. The crux comes fairly quickly. After the shared opening moves of Yellow Christ, a quick bump left to a small but good undercling sets you up to move your feet to very small foot holds for a deadpoint to a not-positive sidepull at full extension.

The next moves are very difficult, and desperate. After the most strenuous bit, you are deposited on a jug (for that route, at least), that leads to easier, yet still continuously rowdy climbing that uses a lot of side pulls and big moves aided by some good low-heel hooks. This bit of climbing, while easier, is some of the best-feeling movement on rock you'll ever experience.

No gear, but two bolts at the top are set just right for a TR.

By Kaelen Willaims
Mar 29, 2008

Wow. The only thing that kept me from giving this thing four stars was the lack of pro, forcing a toprope. Amazing movement. I'm not too good with grades, and this thing fit my style perfectly, so I'm not going to submit a grade. Anyway, it doesn't really matter, so long as the general idea is right, which in this case I think it is I'd like to lead it, but the utter lack of pro would make headpoint-soloing it a bit more practical...