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Andrews Creek & The Gash

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adaptive Methods T 
Andrews Glacier 
Andrews' Tower, North Face T 
Brain Freeze 
Chiropractic Couloir 
Chockstones of Unusual Size (C.O.U.S.) 
Circling Sharks T 
Flour Power Couloir 
Northwest Gully of Sharkstooth 
Ol' Dawg Chimney T 
Production, The T 
Wham Couloir T 

Andrews Creek & The Gash Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.28959, -105.67054 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 30,288
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kurt Johnson on Oct 31, 2006
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This covers the area surrounding the upper Andrews Creek drainage and The Gash, starting roughly from just beyond the Cathedral Wall to the south and Zowie to the north, all the way west to Andrews Glacier and the basin that makes up The Gash to the south. While there isn't much (if any) ice here, this area is chockful of couloirs, at least 10 alone on the south face of Otis that I've never heard anything about and several more in the Gash.


Andrews' Tower

Andrews' Tower, North Face, III 3 M5, 5p, 800'.


Flour Power Couloir, WI2- steep snow, 1000'.
Northwest Gully of Sharkstooth, snow, 3p.

Forbidden Tower

Ol' Dawg Chimney, M5, 4p, 700'.

Chiropractic Couloir, snow, 8p.

Andrews Glacier

Andrews Glacier, snow, 5p, 1000'.

Otis Peak

Adaptive Methods, III 9 WI4 M4, 4p, 800'.
The Production, IV M7 PG-13, 5p, 800'.
Brain Freeze, IV M5+, 8p, 1000'.

Zowie/Wham area

Chockstones of Unusual Size (C.O.U.S.), III M6-7, 4p, 800'.
Wham Couloir , M4, 3p, 400'.

Getting There 

Head up the trail to The Loch, and about a half mile beyond you'll cross a small log bridge over a creek (Andrews Creek) immediately after which you'll see a sign for Andrews Glacier. This trail doesn't see much traffic during the snowy months, so often times it's difficult to follow (it doesn't get packed down much either, so you usually end up post-holing), but if all else fails, follow the creek. Eventually it curves around to the left and suddenly opens up to reveal the spectacular south face of Otis (including Zowie) and way off to the west, Andrews Glacier. You can't see much of The Gash from here, but it's the basin just left (south) of Andrews Glacier with the dramatic spire of Sharkstooth at its end.

Climbing Season

For the Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice area.

Weather station 8.8 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Andrews Creek & The Gash

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Andrews Creek & The Gash:
Wham Couloir   M4 Easy Snow     Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches, 800'   
Flour Power Couloir   WI2- Steep Snow     Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1000'   
Brain Freeze   M5+ Steep Snow     Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Andrews Creek & The Gash

Featured Route For Andrews Creek & The Gash
Rock Climbing Photo: Early morning sun on the south face of Otis Peak s...

Brain Freeze M5+ Steep Snow  CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Andrews Creek & The Gash
Brain Freeze climbs a series of gullies, corners and roofs up the right side of the Solar Wall on the south face of Otis Peak, directly behind Zowie. The route follows the first 300 feet of the Standard Route on the Solar Wall, then breaks up and left to follow a parallel gully system on the steeper face above.The middle section of the route offers continuously difficult climbing up narrow chutes, steep chimneys and overhanging chockstone cruxes. Belay caves form below the two chockstone cruxe...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Andrews Creek & The Gash Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrews Glacier ski approach, Oct. 2013.
Andrews Glacier ski approach, Oct. 2013.

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