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Andrews Creek & The Gash

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adaptive Methods T 
Andrews Glacier 
Andrews' Tower, North Face T 
Brain Freeze 
Chiropractic Couloir 
Chockstones of Unusual Size (C.O.U.S.) 
Circling Sharks T 
Flour Power Couloir 
Northwest Gully of Sharkstooth 
Ol' Dawg Chimney T 
Production, The T 
Wham Couloir T 
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Andrews Creek & The Gash  

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Location: 40.28959, -105.67054 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 26,781
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kurt Johnson on Oct 31, 2006
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This covers the area surrounding the upper Andrews Creek drainage and The Gash, starting roughly from just beyond the Cathedral Wall to the south and Zowie to the north, all the way west to Andrews Glacier and the basin that makes up The Gash to the south. While there isn't much (if any) ice here, this area is chockful of couloirs, at least 10 alone on the south face of Otis that I've never heard anything about and several more in the Gash.


Andrews' Tower

Andrews' Tower, North Face, III 3 M5, 5p, 800'.


Flour Power Couloir, WI2- steep snow, 1000'.
Northwest Gully of Sharkstooth, snow, 3p.

Forbidden Tower

Ol' Dawg Chimney, M5, 4p, 700'.

Chiropractic Couloir, snow, 8p.

Andrews Glacier

Andrews Glacier, snow, 5p, 1000'.

Otis Peak

Adaptive Methods, III 9 WI4 M4, 4p, 800'.
The Production, IV M7 PG-13, 5p, 800'.
Brain Freeze, IV M5+, 8p, 1000'.

Zowie/Wham area

Chockstones of Unusual Size (C.O.U.S.), III M6-7, 4p, 800'.
Wham Couloir , M4, 3p, 400'.

Getting There 

Head up the trail to The Loch, and about a half mile beyond you'll cross a small log bridge over a creek (Andrews Creek) immediately after which you'll see a sign for Andrews Glacier. This trail doesn't see much traffic during the snowy months, so often times it's difficult to follow (it doesn't get packed down much either, so you usually end up post-holing), but if all else fails, follow the creek. Eventually it curves around to the left and suddenly opens up to reveal the spectacular south face of Otis (including Zowie) and way off to the west, Andrews Glacier. You can't see much of The Gash from here, but it's the basin just left (south) of Andrews Glacier with the dramatic spire of Sharkstooth at its end.

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.8 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Andrews Creek & The Gash:
Wham Couloir   M4 Easy Snow     Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches, 800'   
Flour Power Couloir   WI2- Steep Snow     Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1000'   
Brain Freeze   M5+ Steep Snow     Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000'   
Browse More Classics in Andrews Creek & The Gash

Featured Route For Andrews Creek & The Gash
Near the top of Flour Power Couloir.  This is the ...

Flour Power Couloir WI2- Steep Snow  CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Andrews Creek & The Gash
Flour Power Couloir starts from The Gash below the headwall that sits beneath Andrews Tarn. It goes up the south face of Otis Peak and tops out just east of the summit.The couloir is roughly 1000' in height and when conditions are right makes for a nice snow climb similar in quality to Dragon's Tail Couloir. For the most part, Flour Power Couloir is very narrow (roughly 15' across) and a little curvy which gives it a nice character. You can never see the top until you're there.The main difficult...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Andrews Creek & The Gash Slideshow Add Photo
Andrews Glacier ski approach, Oct. 2013.
Andrews Glacier ski approach, Oct. 2013.

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