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 ADVANCED
Zippy Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
And Grooving Was Grooving  T 
Black Stallion, The S 
Canalizo T 
Die Young T 
Does Royalty Give Head? T 
Don't T 
Free As Can Be T 
Gargoyle T 
Hans Solo T 
J.B. Goes to J.T. TR 
Jedi Master T 
Moustache, The T 
New Hamster S 
Shongo Pavi T 
Wild Dream T 

And Grooving Was Grooving  

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ben Chapman & Randy McClure (April 1994)
Page Views: 278
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on Nov 28, 2010

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"Gotcha Bush" begins at the base of the ...

Description 

The crux of this route is navigating around/through the maze of "cats claw" bushes that now guard the start. Begin at the base of two parallel right leaning water grooves that extend 3/4 of the way up the face. Jam and palm the shallow grooves until you reach the aplite dike that diagonals across the upper face. Continue up the dike to the top. Place an anchor in the crack at the top as for Shongo Pavi & Hans Solo.

Location 

Middle of Zippy Rock, begins at ground level, 50 feet left of Jedi Master & Shongo Pavi.

Protection 

Small to medium cams in the water grooves. The upper face is unprotected. Medium cams for the anchor.


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