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This crag is located on the south side of Johnson Canyon at the top of a northwest facing slope. You can see many different formations in the Indian Cove Campground looking north from the top. All of the established routes ascend cracks that range from finger width to offwidth on quality rock. Spanish Bayonet (5.9), a striking finger crack, is the gem of Ancient Kingdom.
Approach Johnson Canyon on a trail that travels south across the road from the popular Short Wall. At the bottom of the wash is a prominent split boulder with bolt protected routes. It is best to remain on the north side of the boulder strewn canyon for fifty yards or so before crossing to the south side. An intermittent trail is present on the north facing slope of the south side. As the canyon veers south, the Ancient Kingdom is apparent high on the hillside facing Northwest. The formation is only about 400 yds up the canyon but navigating over numerous boulders makes it seem much further.
3 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ancient Kingdom:
Spanish Bayonet 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Ancient Kingdom
Spanish Bayonet 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Ancient Kingdom
Crux moves past a bolt lead into the crack proper which eats up gear, particularly hexes. Gear belay and walk off or rap from anchors atop Carmania. A hidden gem of the Indian Cove area that's worth the somewhat arduous approach. Three stars out of five. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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