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Twin Brothers
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Ancient Gallery 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A3

Type:  Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, 950', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A3 [details]
FA: Eric Ramussen & Chris Sircello in 1992
Page Views: 1,960
Submitted By: bsmoot on Mar 15, 2008

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Kim Miller cleaning pitch 5 in April of 2000

***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This classic aid route follows thin face cracks up a beautiful section of the lower Twin Brother formation. There are no ledges above pitch 2. Please be careful with the rock (when cleaning pins, please favor upward blows).

P1 - Start in a left facing corner that turns into a chimney (5.10).
P2 - Easy scrambling leads to the base of a smooth wall. 3 bolts can be seen above.
P3 - Ascend a blank area, mostly drilled holes & bolts to a hanging belay.
P4-9 - Follow a mostly thin crack to the top. The last pitch has some soft rock. This route could go clean. The visitors center has a topo.

Descend by scrambling south to a pine tree. Make 2 190' rappels to the drainage between Twin Brother and East Temple. Descend this (2 raps) to the ground.


This route climbs the lower right side of Twin Brother. 1 mile up from the Y to Mt Carmal junction, hike up a gully to the base of the buttress on the right. See photo of Twin Brothers.


1-2 beaks; 3-5 KB & LA: 2-4 baby angles; 1-3 larger angles up to 1 1/4". Many micro and offset nuts. 2 sets TCU's up to #3. 2 sets Camalots 1-4, and 1 #5. Hooks including bat hooks, rivit hangers. PLEASE DON'T BRING CAM HOOKS. We didn't bring any.

Photos of Ancient Gallery Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 6
Pitch 6
Rock Climbing Photo: 7th Pitch
7th Pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: 5th pitch
5th pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Kim, emerging from the roof on pitch 7
Kim, emerging from the roof on pitch 7
Rock Climbing Photo: 6th pitch
6th pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting into the crack system on P4.
Getting into the crack system on P4.
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the 5th pitch. Bring hooks!
Starting the 5th pitch. Bring hooks!
Rock Climbing Photo: P1, nice.
P1, nice.
Rock Climbing Photo: Top 5th pitch
Top 5th pitch

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