|Type: ||Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, 950', Grade V|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b A3 [details]|
|FA: ||Eric Ramussen & Chris Sircello in 1992|
|Page Views: ||1,591|
|Submitted By: ||bsmoot on Mar 15, 2008|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Kim Miller cleaning pitch 5 in April of 2000
This classic aid route follows thin face cracks up a beautiful section of the lower Twin Brother formation. There are no ledges above pitch 2. Please be careful with the rock (when cleaning pins, please favor upward blows).
P1 - Start in a left facing corner that turns into a chimney (5.10).
P2 - Easy scrambling leads to the base of a smooth wall. 3 bolts can be seen above.
P3 - Ascend a blank area, mostly drilled holes & bolts to a hanging belay.
P4-9 - Follow a mostly thin crack to the top. The last pitch has some soft rock. This route could go clean. The visitors center has a topo.
Descend by scrambling south to a pine tree. Make 2 190' rappels to the drainage between Twin Brother and East Temple. Descend this (2 raps) to the ground.
This route climbs the lower right side of Twin Brother. 1 mile up from the Y to Mt Carmal junction, hike up a gully to the base of the buttress on the right. See photo of Twin Brothers.
1-2 beaks; 3-5 KB & LA: 2-4 baby angles; 1-3 larger angles up to 1 1/4". Many micro and offset nuts. 2 sets TCU's up to #3. 2 sets Camalots 1-4, and 1 #5. Hooks including bat hooks, rivit hangers. PLEASE DON'T BRING CAM HOOKS. We didn't bring any.
|Comments on Ancient Gallery