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Twin Brothers
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Ancient Gallery 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A3

Type:  Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, 950', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A3 [details]
FA: Eric Ramussen & Chris Sircello in 1992
Page Views: 1,830
Submitted By: bsmoot on Mar 15, 2008

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Kim Miller cleaning pitch 5 in April of 2000

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This classic aid route follows thin face cracks up a beautiful section of the lower Twin Brother formation. There are no ledges above pitch 2. Please be careful with the rock (when cleaning pins, please favor upward blows).

P1 - Start in a left facing corner that turns into a chimney (5.10).
P2 - Easy scrambling leads to the base of a smooth wall. 3 bolts can be seen above.
P3 - Ascend a blank area, mostly drilled holes & bolts to a hanging belay.
P4-9 - Follow a mostly thin crack to the top. The last pitch has some soft rock. This route could go clean. The visitors center has a topo.

Descend by scrambling south to a pine tree. Make 2 190' rappels to the drainage between Twin Brother and East Temple. Descend this (2 raps) to the ground.


This route climbs the lower right side of Twin Brother. 1 mile up from the Y to Mt Carmal junction, hike up a gully to the base of the buttress on the right. See photo of Twin Brothers.


1-2 beaks; 3-5 KB & LA: 2-4 baby angles; 1-3 larger angles up to 1 1/4". Many micro and offset nuts. 2 sets TCU's up to #3. 2 sets Camalots 1-4, and 1 #5. Hooks including bat hooks, rivit hangers. PLEASE DON'T BRING CAM HOOKS. We didn't bring any.

Photos of Ancient Gallery Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 6
Pitch 6
7th Pitch
7th Pitch
5th pitch
5th pitch
Kim, emerging from the roof on pitch 7
Kim, emerging from the roof on pitch 7
6th pitch
6th pitch
Getting into the crack system on P4.
Getting into the crack system on P4.
Starting the 5th pitch. Bring hooks!
Starting the 5th pitch. Bring hooks!
P1, nice.
P1, nice.
Top 5th pitch
Top 5th pitch

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