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BETA PHOTO: Ancient Fright. From the top of Ancient Light, tr...
ANCIENT FRIGHT is located on the remote NE face of the Third Tier of Avalon, well around the corner from the Wall of the Goddess. The route ascends a steep wall some 30 feet left from the top of Ancient Light. Approach via Ancient Light or climb in from the left (class 4).
Climb steep and very well-formed rock past 5 bolts. The higher you go, the harder it gets. Lower off, 70 feet.
Resurrection continues from the top of this route to the magnificent summit of Avalon (5.9), but you need gear up to 3 inches, q.v.
Bring only QDs. New Fixe stainless steel all the way. 5 bolts to a 2-ring anchor. Lower off 70 feet.
Nickie Kelly starting the crux sequence at the fou...
Nickie Kelly stretching to unclip the last bolt on...
BETA PHOTO: Routes on Crack Land, part of Avalon. Approach vi...
BETA PHOTO: This is an updated photo of Crack Land, part of Av...
At the third bolt.
|Comments on Ancient Fright
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 30, 2005
A steep and sustained pitch; hard climbing from the third to the fifth bolts with minimal stances. The crux is at the fourth bolt. We continued up to the tree at the start of Resurrection instead of lowering from the 2-bolt anchor.
We approached via Ancient Light, a good pitch with excellent airy climbing on the upper arete.
|By Richard Rossiter|
Oct 5, 2005
The tree above the finish to Ancient Fright is gone. A gigantic boulder tipped over and shattered the tree, but did not quite break it off. Thus the boulder teetered precariously against the tree, 200 feet above the approach gully.
I came up with a tree surgeon's saw on a 10-foot fibre glass pole and cut the tree until it snapped under the weight of the boulder. This was a hairy opperation as I had to get down even with the base of the tree to wield the saw. This boulder was literally the size of a VW bug, but of solid granite. It is difficult to even speculate how much it weighed. When the boulder fell, it ripped a path through the forest below about 10 feet wide and 200 meters long...most of the way to Boulder Creek.
I felt I had to fell the tree under controlled circumstances rather than when the tree finally gave way on its own. In any case, you can no longer belay or rappel from this tree.
FYI: I returned during the summer of 2006 and placed a 2-bolt ringe anchor on the east wall of the recess beneath Resurrection (in place of the fallen tree). Richard Rossiter
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 19, 2007
A good pitch and solid for the grade. Balance on sidepulls to make your way through the crux. There's a blue Alien placement to supplement the bolts. No need for gear above the anchor if you are making your way to resurrection.
From: Boulder, Co
Sep 16, 2012
Bob D'Antonio's book called this 10b. I found it pretty hard by Boulder Canyon standards. I also placed a yellow Mastercam going from 3rd to 4th bolt.
|By Jay Eggleston|
5 days ago
This route deserves its 10c rating and not the 10b rating it is given in the D'Antonio book. It is sustained at the 10c grade on small sidepull holds.