Anchoring belayer to ground (single pitch)

Just wondering what is the proper/preferred method of anchoring a lighter belayer for lead belaying?
My g/f weighs 70-75 lbs less than me and can belay me un-anchored if I'm on top-rope, but definitely needs to be anchored when I'm leading.
We've been slinging rocks or trunks to her haul loop (12kn rated) in line with her and the first bolt. I use my 7mm cordelette and/or nylon slings as they are slightly dynamic.
Just wondering if others would do it differently; i.e. anchor to her belay loop?
I'm thinking that would increase force on her belay loop, but it would just depend on where the anchor can be placed.
Thoughts? Your technique?

Anchoring to the haul loop is generally not good. Think about it, when you fall you're going to be pulling her from the belay loop, and the haul loop is going to be pulling back, squeezing your poor girlfriend in the middle. This could potentially hurt or injure her. A haul loop is meant for just that, hauling.

When I face this scenario, I use the rope to anchor the belayer, as it is most dynamic, and have it go to her belay loop, under the belay device. Also, have the anchor line go on the side her brake hand is, this way when you fall she isn't pulled the opposite way she is trying to lock you off. I wouldn't really be concerned with the force on her belay loop more so than the force on her.

I was taught that a rated haul loop is just fine, I really don't think the squeazing force would be enough to be that uncomfortable or cause an injury. If you do use the belay, having it off to the side of the brake hand would be recommended as to avoid twisting of your belayer.

I have had many partners 75-100 pounds lighter than me and enjoy the soft catch(aka: the flying teabag) of them not being anchored, but only for single pitch where there is no hazard for the belayer to get yanked into.

The issue with her being "in the system" is that if you take a fall she`ll be yanked off the ground and suspended between you and the anchor attached to her haul loop. If she can't touch the ground she`ll be top heavy and probably rotate, which isnt a problem as long as she doesn't freak out and let go of her brake hand. You`re more in risk of getting hurt in that system than she is.

The other issue is it`ll be much harder for her to escape "the system" if god forbid she had to go get help or need to escape it. I think the better solution if you really need an anchor for her is to clip the belay device into the anchor directly and have her belay off the anchor. this way if you take a fall she wont be impacted because she can clip in from the side

Kevin's right. I've seen this happen, and it certainly isn't fun for the belayer. Clipping the anchor into the belay loop also makes it easier for the belayer to exit the belay in the event of a rescue.

KevinF wrote:Think about it, when you fall you're going to be pulling her from the belay loop, and the haul loop is going to be pulling back, squeezing your poor girlfriend in the middle.

Yes, it absolutely can. I speak from experience. If it happens, she could get seriously uncomfortable really fast with no easy way out. If you are concerned about putting too much force on the belay loop, is that really the kind of force you want on your girlfriend's torso? Which holds her organs?

I weigh less than most of my climbing partners, I prefer to belay from the ground unanchored when it can be done safely - sometimes your belayer taking a ride is a good thing. Sometimes it's not. Use your best judgment, but I heartily recommend using the belay loop when you do anchor.

Matt N wrote:My g/f weighs 70-75 lbs less than me and can belay me un-anchored if I'm on top-rope, but definitely needs to be anchored when I'm leading.

No she doesn't.

I'd say just make sure she stands where she will be pulled straight up and not into the rock. But that's just me..

I'm mostly concerned about her getting pulled up into the first bolt of sport routes. She locks off securely and I'm not worried about being dropped, but about her hitting something on the way up or actually getting hands/belay device caught on the bolt. I feel comfortable having her unclip from the anchor after a few more bolts are between us.
I'm not leading anything crazy and pitching off the rock a bunch. She's caught one lead fall. If I'm leading its something easy/moderate that she can follow.
Just making sure that we're keeping the leader and belayer safe. If climbing with others, I'd have someone heavier lead belay me.

EdAsh wrote:Cheers, If you out weigh her by 70lbs and you take frequent lead falls, then I would suggest to her that she find someone that can actually climb.

If you aren't falling you aren't trying.

Matt N wrote:I'm mostly concerned about her getting pulled up into the first bolt of sport routes. She locks off securely and I'm not worried about being dropped, but about her hitting something on the way up or actually getting hands/belay device caught on the bolt. I feel comfortable having her unclip from the anchor after a few more bolts are between us. I'm not leading anything crazy and pitching off the rock a bunch. She's caught one lead fall. If I'm leading its something easy/moderate that she can follow. Just making sure that we're keeping the leader and belayer safe. If climbing with others, I'd have someone heavier lead belay me.

Ok, that's understandable. You could have her put on some weight, but that requires you dig fat chicks. I'd just have her tie in to the other end of the rope and clove or figure 8 her to some anchor on the ground. Just remember if it's a really static anchor that there will be greater force on the bolt you fall on.

My wife is 60 lbs lighter than me and we ALWAYS anchor her, regardless of the difficulty (holds break on 5.7 climbs too). We prefer using her belay loop for the reasons already mentioned. It's the little things like this that will save your ass over a lifetime of climbing. I see so many people debating the use of helmets, not using backups (e.g. prusiks) when rappelling, not anchoring the belayer, and so on. It's downright foolish if you ask me.

EdAsh wrote:Cheers, Read between the lines... I have caught some serious falls in my time but 70 lbs difference in weight and leader falls... at the 5.7 level come on?!

You mean 5.7 is so easy that no one should be falling on them? I don't know Matt's climbing ability but I would hope you aren't scorning him for falling on a 5.7. We all start somewhere, and we all learn in different ways.

Back to the original question...I'm with Kevin and Em Cos. Hooking your girl up with the belay loop on one side and the haul loop on the other is unnecessarily putting her abdomen at risk. A lead fall can produce force in the neighborhood of 4-7kN. That's about 900-1500lbs of force that would be trying to straighten out her waist loop. I'm not saying it can't be done, but IMO it's an unnecessary risk. Put the belay device and the anchor both on her belay loop. Anchor goes on brake side. I'll agree about unanchored/soft catches, but if I'm anchoring (on the ground) this is the setup I'd use. If you're concerned with shock loading, just remember to keep your static components taut at all times.

The easiest option is to have her belay off the anchor. It can take some getting used to but it's easier on her kidneys and other squishy parts, avoids any problems of her gettings yanked off the ground, and makes belay escapes (which aren't necessary on most single pitch climb) super easy. If you don't feel the anchor on the ground is adequate you can always have her clip into the anchor as a backup. The other nice things it will help with is when you decide to take her multipitch climbing, the transition will be that much easier.

I've seen lighter belayers picked up and flipped onto their heads when catching big falls and being anchored to the ground or a tree by the haul loop. Only use the belay loop to anchor someone to the ground.

Have her tie in to the opposite end of the rope, then fix that to an anchor on the ground. Keep the tether line taut and don't straddle it for obvious reasons. If she gets pulled up off the ground it's quite simple for her to get back down, she just has to lower herself like lowering you or rappelling. Don't worry about the force on your belay loop being too much. You won't break it without completely breaking yourself first.

Apparently EdAsh's earlier posts are gone now - I'll admit I'm a noob, but can handle any internet prodding.
I was introduced to climbing mid-July this year in Tuolumne and have 3 trips total up there with about 10 days of following single & mutipitch trad. Just a handful of days here on Santa Barbara sandstone toproping and 3 days in Josh. No indoor climbing. Led for my first time in the Alabama Hills a few weeks ago, and did some more this past weekend, which was my g/f's first time belaying a leader. Took one fall on my first 5.8 lead - she did well (was anchored) catching.
I don't expect to fall on any 5.7 (haven't yet), but like to know that she won't get surprised by a quick ride up!

It sounds like anchoring to her belay loop would be more comfortable, but many times a boulder/tree is farther back from the wall - is the haul loop the best bet for these situations? I'm not sure if she would feel comfortable belaying me off the anchor. I also currently only have a sport rack, so I have to sling something for pro.
Just fill a backpack with 100lbs of gear and clip it to her? haha

Ed- With all due respect, your snide, elistist remarks are not helping anyone.

Matt, I would always keep to the belay loop, even if your anchor is further away. Be safe and have fun out there, regardless of the grade.

No hard feelings Ed. Its the internet - I won't take anything personal.

Will use the belay loop next time its necessary.

Why does everyone belay off their belay loop? Do you belay off your belay loop at the top of a pitch? If so you're doing it the hard way. Have her belay directly off the anchor, backed up through her belay loop. Then there's no issue with whether it's far back or what because none of the force will be on her, unless the anchor fails, but that's a different issue entirely.

I agree with the above that most of the time having people unanchored puts my mind at ease. Unless the situation has a belayer and climber of significant weight difference. Then issues of getting yanked into the first bolt may take precedence over issues of belayer flexibility.

jmeizis wrote:Why does everyone belay off their belay loop?

This question does not dignify a response.

He's talking about his lightweight girlfriend belaying him on single pitch sport climbs. What other option (not counting belaying off the anchor, as it's already been mentioned) is there besides the belay loop?