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Anchor Replacement Initiative (ARI)
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By anthony s
Feb 14, 2013

I am part of ARI and am actively looking for routes in So Cal that need a little TLC. Please let me know if a route need replacing, has worn out or inadequate belay and rappel anchors.

Only EXISTING bolts/anchors will be replaced. If you have any suggestions, please leave me a detailed location/route name and a list of what may be needed.

Climb Safe!
Anthony


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Feb 14, 2013

I hear this place:

www.mountainproject.com/v/point-dume/105850721

Could use some love. Ideally Titanium glue-ins, but I dont know if ARI funds those or not.


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By Nick Mudd
Feb 18, 2013
Nick1

you have to be careful at Dume because it is illegal to place new bolts there. a guy i know had his drill confiscated and recieved a pretty hefty ticket while attempting to replace bolts for ASCA. i would suggest doing it at night or on a day when there aren't many people around..and keep an eye out for the sheriffs.


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By Dave Kos
Feb 18, 2013

Big Rock
mountainproject.com/v/big-rock-area/105799050

Anchor bolts are generally in good shape, but some of the lead bolts are pretty old.


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By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 18, 2013
High Desert Sunrise, Joshua Tree NP

Dave, which routes/bolts do you think need replacing at Big Rock?


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By Dave Kos
Feb 19, 2013

There seems to be a mix of modern and old bolts at Big Rock. I recall that the first bolt on Wedunett was an older button-head style, and a failure of this bolt would be bad. Also the first (second?) bolt on Mind Bender, which is at the crux. There are probably others. If you go to the main slab area and take a look, you be able to see some of the older bolts from the ground.

Big Rock has been climbed for decades and some of the FA information on the routes may no longer be available. However, I don't think the climbing community would take issue with bolt *replacement.* (Also, I don't know the park rules on anchors.) It is a popular area for beginners, families, etc. so you would certainly be doing a service by upgrading the bolts.


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By kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Feb 19, 2013
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks

Dave Kos wrote:
There seems to be a mix of modern and old bolts at Big Rock. I recall that the first bolt on Wedunett was an older button-head style, and a failure of this bolt would be bad. Also the first (second?) bolt on Mind Bender, which is at the crux. There are probably others. If you go to the main slab area and take a look, you be able to see some of the older bolts from the ground.


I don't think this is correct, the only button-heads on the main slab of big rock that I can remember are on the second pitch of Puppy dog, and these should be replaced. I'm pretty sure that all the bolts on Wedunett and Mind Bender are 3/8" power bolts, but they are old (from the 80's I believe), rusty, and I would agree that it's about time to replace them with new stainless bolts even though as of now I don't believe that they are dangerous.

As has been mentioned, be careful if you are replacing bolts at point dume because if caught you will get a ticket and all of your gear confiscated, but it would be great if they were replaced.


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By kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Feb 19, 2013
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks

C Miller wrote:
Dave, which routes/bolts do you think need replacing at Big Rock?


Personally I think it's about time to replace the bolts on variation to boogaloo, boogaloo direct, wedunnit, and the second pitch of puppy dog.


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By Dave Kos
Feb 19, 2013

I climbed Wedunett a few weeks ago I seem to remember that the first bolt I clipped had a rounded "rivet style" head (i.e. not a hexagonal bolt or nut.) It did appear to be beefy enough and was probably a 3/8 diameter, but it certainly was "old" by today's standards.

(maybe I was off route and was not on Wedunett, as I don't know the exact line - nevertheless, it was in the area left of the Trough.)

The bolt on Mind Bender was not a "buttonhead," but it still seemed to be less than modern. (again, I could have been on the wrong route - I do that a lot.)

I agree with Ken that these bolts are probably not an imminent risk, but they are still good candidates for replacement.


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Feb 19, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

anthony s ..... how about all the bolts at Williamson Rock.


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By anthony s
Feb 19, 2013

I appreciate all the suggestions!

John, as far as Point Dume’s bolts, I believe it illegal to even replace them. I am going to reach out to a few ‘peeps’ and see if I can replace them with the proper permission. Probably gona be a uphill battle with the authorities.

Dave, Big Rock is a great suggestion! I will head out there in the next few weeks and look at what needs to be upgraded. I have fond memories of climbing there!

Guy, Williamson Rock is still closed to climbing. If it ever opens up, it will need lots of attention.

Keep the suggestions coming……

Climb Safe!


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Feb 19, 2013

Good lord, replacement is illegal? Shoot me a message, ill be happy to help work with you on that. I was part of the team that got the ban on replacement in Red Rock lifted a few years ago.


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By Bryan G
From San Jose
Feb 21, 2013
Puffy jackets and Happy Boulders

There's plenty to keep you busy in Joshua Tree. I have some friends who said the rap anchor off The Tombstone was terrifying. I myself backed off the start of S Cracker, in part at least because the one lead bolt in the beginning was terrible. Repo Man (aka Power Fingers) has a good anchor, but the lead bolts are all bad which makes the already runnout lead quite a bit more suicidal. And I know the bolts on The Last Unicorn have been turning parties away for more than a decade. And also right next door, The Great Unknown has a bad anchor and lead bolts on the last pitch.

If you get with one of the Jtree locals they could probably point you to a bunch more stuff. It's now been a few years since I was actively climbing there. In looking up routes for this post I've discovered that some of the ones I had in mind, like Edge of Doom and Mental Bankruptcy, have already been rebolted, which is good to hear.


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By randy88fj62
Feb 21, 2013
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades

John and Anthony,
There is a gentleman named David Potter who is very active with Socal Climbers on meetup.com. He speaks to the rangers there often and has gotten permission in the past to repair fencing. There has been a major issue with the locals and climbers accessing the crag. A lot of trampling of vegetation occurs and climbers get blamed for erosion.

The locals there have something against climbers. Because of this the locals banned the replacement of bolts. There is a boulder at the top that could be used as a natural anchor.

I recommend placing belay bolts for the main face (not the ocean face) a few feet below the top. This would prevent your aveage joe from banging bolts with a hammer and preserve them longer away from the eyes of the locals.

Bolts at the top are aveage at best and half are spinners. Good luck working with the rangers and the locals. If you want david Potter's email please pm me.


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By Nelson Day
From Joshua Tree, CA
Feb 21, 2013
me (about to sneeze)

The first bolt on Figures on a Landscape in Joshua Tree needs to be replaced. Also the first bolt on the second pitch (not part of the anchor, the one left of the anchor you clip to lead the second pitch) also needs to be replaced. I can see why they haven't been replaced, though... probably a pretty tough spot to drill.


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By Richard Shore
Feb 22, 2013
Eichorns Pinnacle

^^^ Just because the hangers spin doesn't mean the bolts are bad. Those are all bomber 3/8" powers.


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