I am part of ARI and am actively looking for routes in So Cal that need a little TLC. Please let me know if a route need replacing, has worn out or inadequate belay and rappel anchors.

Only EXISTING bolts/anchors will be replaced. If you have any suggestions, please leave me a detailed location/route name and a list of what may be needed.

Climb Safe!
Anthony

I hear this place:

www.mountainproject.com/v/point-dume/105850721

Could use some love. Ideally Titanium glue-ins, but I dont know if ARI funds those or not.

you have to be careful at Dume because it is illegal to place new bolts there. a guy i know had his drill confiscated and recieved a pretty hefty ticket while attempting to replace bolts for ASCA. i would suggest doing it at night or on a day when there aren't many people around..and keep an eye out for the sheriffs.

Big Rock
mountainproject.com/v/big-rock-area/105799050

Anchor bolts are generally in good shape, but some of the lead bolts are pretty old.

Dave, which routes/bolts do you think need replacing at Big Rock?

There seems to be a mix of modern and old bolts at Big Rock. I recall that the first bolt on Wedunett was an older button-head style, and a failure of this bolt would be bad. Also the first (second?) bolt on Mind Bender, which is at the crux. There are probably others. If you go to the main slab area and take a look, you be able to see some of the older bolts from the ground.

Big Rock has been climbed for decades and some of the FA information on the routes may no longer be available. However, I don't think the climbing community would take issue with bolt *replacement.* (Also, I don't know the park rules on anchors.) It is a popular area for beginners, families, etc. so you would certainly be doing a service by upgrading the bolts.

I climbed Wedunett a few weeks ago I seem to remember that the first bolt I clipped had a rounded "rivet style" head (i.e. not a hexagonal bolt or nut.) It did appear to be beefy enough and was probably a 3/8 diameter, but it certainly was "old" by today's standards.

(maybe I was off route and was not on Wedunett, as I don't know the exact line - nevertheless, it was in the area left of the Trough.)

The bolt on Mind Bender was not a "buttonhead," but it still seemed to be less than modern. (again, I could have been on the wrong route - I do that a lot.)

I agree with Ken that these bolts are probably not an imminent risk, but they are still good candidates for replacement.

anthony s ..... how about all the bolts at Williamson Rock.

I appreciate all the suggestions!

John, as far as Point Dume’s bolts, I believe it illegal to even replace them. I am going to reach out to a few ‘peeps’ and see if I can replace them with the proper permission. Probably gona be a uphill battle with the authorities.

Dave, Big Rock is a great suggestion! I will head out there in the next few weeks and look at what needs to be upgraded. I have fond memories of climbing there!

Guy, Williamson Rock is still closed to climbing. If it ever opens up, it will need lots of attention.

Keep the suggestions coming……

Climb Safe!

Good lord, replacement is illegal? Shoot me a message, ill be happy to help work with you on that. I was part of the team that got the ban on replacement in Red Rock lifted a few years ago.

There's plenty to keep you busy in Joshua Tree. I have some friends who said the rap anchor off The Tombstone was terrifying. I myself backed off the start of S Cracker, in part at least because the one lead bolt in the beginning was terrible. Repo Man (aka Power Fingers) has a good anchor, but the lead bolts are all bad which makes the already runnout lead quite a bit more suicidal. And I know the bolts on The Last Unicorn have been turning parties away for more than a decade. And also right next door, The Great Unknown has a bad anchor and lead bolts on the last pitch.

If you get with one of the Jtree locals they could probably point you to a bunch more stuff. It's now been a few years since I was actively climbing there. In looking up routes for this post I've discovered that some of the ones I had in mind, like Edge of Doom and Mental Bankruptcy, have already been rebolted, which is good to hear.

John and Anthony,
There is a gentleman named David Potter who is very active with Socal Climbers on meetup.com. He speaks to the rangers there often and has gotten permission in the past to repair fencing. There has been a major issue with the locals and climbers accessing the crag. A lot of trampling of vegetation occurs and climbers get blamed for erosion.

The locals there have something against climbers. Because of this the locals banned the replacement of bolts. There is a boulder at the top that could be used as a natural anchor.

I recommend placing belay bolts for the main face (not the ocean face) a few feet below the top. This would prevent your aveage joe from banging bolts with a hammer and preserve them longer away from the eyes of the locals.

Bolts at the top are aveage at best and half are spinners. Good luck working with the rangers and the locals. If you want david Potter's email please pm me.

The first bolt on Figures on a Landscape in Joshua Tree needs to be replaced. Also the first bolt on the second pitch (not part of the anchor, the one left of the anchor you clip to lead the second pitch) also needs to be replaced. I can see why they haven't been replaced, though... probably a pretty tough spot to drill.

^^^ Just because the hangers spin doesn't mean the bolts are bad. Those are all bomber 3/8" powers.