Anchor building with the rope
|
So after a couple of these self-equalizing anchor threads (from which I learned quite a lot) I'm interested in the pros and con's of using the rope to build an anchor. |
|
Bearbreeder posted some pretty great pictures illustrating the main ideas on another thread. I don't remember which thread, though. |
|
teece303 wrote:Bearbreeder posted some pretty great pictures illustrating the main ideas on another thread. I don't remember which thread, though.http://www.mountainproject.com/v/multi-pitch-anchor-building-using-the-rope/109397635 I like the cordelette method (as tied using the lead rope)...simple and impossible to forget once you have done it once. The two end pieces can be eights or cloves. |
|
Also, check out multipitchclimbing.com/ |
|
I'll take a shot at this since no one else has: |
|
Whoh, I type slow, 3 others posted up before me as I typed. |
|
For three pieces aligned vertically, what Billcoe said (except for the "equalized" part, which won't be true, and in fact it is quite likely that only one piece will be loaded). For pieces spread horizontally, Tie the butterfly powerpoint first, placing it at the level you want. The numbers give the clipping order. The "redirection point" is an optional feature. If you don't care about having a power point and are willing to deal with extra complication in a possible belay escape, you can skip the butterfly power point and instead clip back to the rope tie-in loop. A second for multipitchclimbing.com. The method they call the "DIL" method is almost the same as the rigging shown here. Dave Coley posts here periodically. But don't just go there, buy the book. There are variations of the above method on the web, and the differences are necessarily minor, but honestly, I think the one given here is the best in terms of efficiency and versatility. I think any method that requires you to estimate ahead of time how much rope some part of the anchor will need is going to be less effective in general than the process shown here, and some of the anchor methods are much harder to implement when the belay stance is out of reach of the anchors. |
|
Bill has it right..ditch the cordalette and use your rope |
|
Ok quick question I've been trying to figure out.. what's the easiest way to use the rope to build an anchor off a bomber tree? With and without an independent master point? |
|
Tie the power point butterfly in the position you want the power point. Then either (1) walk around the tree and back to the belay stance and clove back to the power point, or put a sling with locker around the tree and put the rope through that and clove back to the power point. Option (2) is the way to go if there is sap running on the tree. |
|
Nathanael wrote:Ok quick question I've been trying to figure out.. what's the easiest way to use the rope to build an anchor off a bomber tree? With and without an independent master point?What I do is pass a bight of the rope around the tree and tie a bowline. You'll have two separate ends leaving the tree: one to your climber and one to you. Leave enough rope so that you can adjust your position with a clove hitch on your harness and enough so that you can tie an alpine butterfly for a masterpoint, if desired. If it's a pine tree, I sling the tree and clip my rope to the slings. mountainproject.com/v/rope-… |
|
I usually go back later and put bolts in so people arent rubbing trees so raw that sap is coming out of them. |
|
Usually this, or some variation thereof. Original idea from Rgold's post above. |
|
Jason Kim wrote:Usually this, or some variation thereof. Original idea from Rgold's post above. I had to disable comments in the video, after all the yahoos started screaming at me that I'm doing it wrong, or I'm an idiot for not using a cordelette, or some variation thereof. F'ing internet, what a treasure. There weren't many "how-to" videos available when I was researching this a few years ago, so I figured I'd make something simple and straight forward. As if I give a rat's ass how others choose to build their anchors, I'm getting a headache just thinking about it. youtube.com/watch?v=HQukLqi…dont get bitter just roll with it especially if you are putting it out there, looks good to me. I'd be happy with it. |
|
Here's an ice climbing version of rgold's setup without the butterfly powerpoint, so harder to escape the belay. |
|
Thanks for all the replied, everybody. That's a lot to be thinking about. |
|
Mathias wrote:Thanks for all the replied, everybody. That's a lot to be thinking about. Can I assume using the rope is typically more hassle when you are leading every pitch, rather than swinging leads?Yes and no A full rope anchor is more hassle for block leads But a Partial rope anchor can be just as fast or faster overall ... This is because you sont waste time trying to make that cord/sling stretch to 3 pieces The basic idea is to build a 2 piece anchor with a sling and top belay off that ... When the second gets to the belay they plug in the 3rd piece and the upwards pull one if needed as theyll have more gear then ... And cloves to them using the rope ... So you only need a normal sling for the anchor and not long cord If needed the leader can also use put in A 3rd piece and use the rope on that if more than 2 r needed for a top belay For 4 piece anchors, just use build 2 normal 2 piece sling anchor and use the "2 piece rope anchor" ... When yr partner comes up they simply use their own "2 piece rope anchor" Using a rope/sling composite anchor can be faster if both folks know what they are doing as it saves trying to build 3-4+ piece anchors and making the cord stretch ... The transition however may require an extra locker or two Ill see if i can take some pics of examples when im at the crag tmr ;) |
|
rgold wrote:Tie the power point butterfly in the position you want the power point. Then either (1) walk around the tree and back to the belay stance and clove back to the power point, or put a sling with locker around the tree and put the rope through that and clove back to the power point. Option (2) is the way to go if there is sap running on the tree.I feel like smiling when I do this. So simple and quick. Also great for boulders: Pull up some rope, throw it over the boulder, knot and biner it, done. Use a cordalette instead of the rope if there are sharp edges. If you need the guide the rope or the boulder is a bit bigger: Step up onto the boulder to guide the rope around, then climb back down and secure it. I usually find this easier than walking around, b/c of rope drag. |
|
Nathanael wrote:Ok quick question I've been trying to figure out.. what's the easiest way to use the rope to build an anchor off a bomber tree? With and without an independent master point?Pull a bight around the tree and clove it to ur extended PAS ... The PAS biner becomes the attachment point for the autoblock/redirect ;) |
|
I use Rgolds anchor minus the powerpoint (edit: and redirect) probably about half the time. One nice thing about it that nobody's commented on is that you don't have to pull up a whole bunch of slack at once to build it. The same goes for taking it down to go on belay again. There is no need to sling yourself to a couple pieces while you build or take apart some monstrous rope eating triple figure eight. Or even to make yourself secure before busting out a cordalette. The first two pieces of the anchor don't introduce any more slack than just clipping into those same pieces in order to "take" and build something else. I don't use it for every gear anchor but it could be made to work for damn near every gear anchor. So for the OP I guess I'd say that Rgolds version is a really good place to start. |
|
Hi, Hopefully a couple of useful comments: |