|Penitente - Inner Canyon
Anatom is located aproximately 200 meters above the HUECO WALL: on the new trail to Witches Canyon. Two cams are often used to reach the first bolt, it is an easy stick clip from the rock the belayer can sit on. The first 20 feet (where the cams would be used) has a nice crack for gear placement. The upper portion is moderate Penitente face rock with small edges and a few huecos to good easy anchors.
Two medium sized cams may be used to reach the first bolt. From there on up it is well bolted by six bolts to cold shut anchors. To top rope this climb I advise using a rope around a small ceder to get to the anchors.
|By Kaelen Willaims|
Apr 15, 2007
The first time I went to Penitente a few years ago, I was lucky enough to run into Alex Colville, who showed my around the canyon. He put the route up after the bolting ban, and he said it was 5.8, which I think is about right.
|By Arthur Sullivan|
Jun 9, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
I don't lead 5.10 and had no problem setting this up. It goes 5.8. Great route with an obvious mantle move above the high first bolt. Rightmost route on the wall.
From: Del Norte, CO
May 30, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Does anyone have info on the two routes left of Anatomy 101?